Thermostat and emergency equip list.

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

     IH all,

     With this thermostat, the fit is excellent.  It's the one 
for the truck (I put one in the T'all and now it has heat too!).  
There is about .004" around the edge of the thermostat.  The 
gaskets are perfect, and I tacked them up with ultra copper.  The 
upper/lower radiator hoses have springs inside to prevent 
collapse, and they flow fine.  The byspass housing in clean and 
free flowing.  It just seemed that the temp guage went higher 
than I have seen it in a long time, and the heater still didn't 
blow hot.  Not even warm.  I flushed the heater core (kinda 
dirty) I flushed the engine, not really dirty at all, and even 
ran the engine with the top outlet housing off, to check for 
flow.  Everything seems fine, just that 180 seems to be a little 
high.  I'll put it back in next week, and we'll see what happens.

     When your heaters are blowing warm, what does the temp read? 
 Mine boils the rad at 5/8 scale.

     JohnL, that was the point I was trying to make.  If the 
thermostat is in backwards it tries to open purely on conducted 
temperature from the block, where if installed correctly, the 
water heats the 'pellet'.

     The major differences lately, have been:
Installed another fan shroud
Bolted solid, my fan clutch
180 deg thermostat
new coolant.

     Still no heat, and I even had cardboard in front of the rad 
while idling rather high to try to heat it up.  The temp was 
almost half scale and still no heat.  The last time I saw the 
temp up that high, was after a wreck that emptied the radiator.

     I hope I can find a 165, if not then a 180.  Thanks 
everyone.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

------------------------------

Ken,

     That's an excellent list.  I use ammo cans from cannon rounds (about the 
size of a suitcase) and they hold everything perfectly.  I always carry what I 
call my 'Bucket of don't get stuck'.  It had 15 feet of 3/8" chain with hooks, 
various d-rings, clips clamps, bars, levers, links, and BIG bolts like for 
trailer hitches (1"x 10thd ?)  Now I've got a 20' length also.  One thing you 
can always carry is a spare U-joint.  They are only $5-10 and are small and can 
save your A$$, especially if you're driving a 2wd truck!  Add a transmission 
fluid funnel to the list, and at least 2 gal of gas.  Even with the worst 
mileage 2 gal can usually get you to someone else who can help, even in the 
sticks.  I also have the 'bumper-lift' for the high lift jack. $27 and it's a 
god-send.  Bend the crap out of the factory bumpers without it!  I also keep a 
small penlight in my glove box.  Can't tell how many times I've fixed things 
only by penlight.  Also, if you're gonna go mudding or fording,, it's anoth $9 
or so but, carry a spare disty cap and rotor.  These are small too!  If you're 
in the t'all most of this will fit in the spare tire well with the tire.

Keep on Scoutin', Travelall'n


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

-----INCLUDED MESSAGE FOLLOWS-----

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 18:48 -0700 (MST)
From: Ken Farmer <Ken.Farmer@domain.elided>
Subject: The well-stocked IH

Hey,

While recently reading about a family in their dodge power wagon who
ended up unexpectantly in a off-road trip from hell, I started
wondering about what every well-prepared IH should have.  Then my wife
my the mistake of encouraging me with comments like, "how could we
make sure that didn't happen to us?".  A few of these items came from
a list that I read put together by some jeep-folks, some are common
sense, some are from my personal experiences of getting stuck.  Any
other suggestions?
<great list snip>
I'm not a mechanic, so I left off u-joints, driveshafts, etc.


Ken Farmer
1980 Scout II
1974 Travelall

------------------------------