Re: Guages, and rear main seal.

[jlandry@domain.elided (John A. Landry)]

On Thu, 06 Nov 97 11:39:52 PST8, jmbrodsky@domain.elided wrote:

>        I have been looking for a tach for a while now,and the 
>Hummer guys with Diesels, seem to like the Autometer #2888 that
> has a max of 4Krpm.  Haven't checked around, but if the 3 
>cluster you got was $40 it sounds like the others will be 
>reasonable. You can just throw a resistor in line to limit 
>the brightness of the lamps in the guages, better yet, get 
>about a .5A potentiometer and dial to the level you like 
>then lock-tight it solid.

Joel,

I don't have the Autometer catalog in front of me, but I *think* the 2888
is more like 3.5" or 4" in diameter.  I want a 2-1/16" diameter tachometer
to fit under the dash and match the existing gauges.  The 0-5000 rpm
2-1/16" tach they offer sells for something like $120.00 through Summit...
special order. OUCH!  It can wait until after a lift kit, new fiberglass
quarter panels, a new paint job, etc. etc.

>Not sure about the T/C but my 392 needs a rear main too!  Leaks 
>about a quart a week.  Let me know part nos. and maybe some tips 
>and tricks if you find any when you do yours.

Boy... I'd say you need a new rear main seal!!!  Mine drips maybe a 1/4
teaspoon after each overnight shutdown.  It also leaks during operation and
because of this, oil gets thrown onto the body my oxygen sensor installed
in the right side exhaust downpipe near the back of the engine.  This
coating causes the oxygen sensor to give false (very lean) readings.  The
oxygen sensor compares the level of unburned hydrocarbons inside the
exhaust pipe verses outside the exhaust pipe.  This difference is used to
calculate the air / fuel mixture of the exhaust.  In my case, there are a
lot more unburned hydrocarbons in the form of smoldering engine oil on the
outside of the oxygen sensor than inside the exhaust pipe.  Hence, false
air / fuel ratio gauge readings inside the truck.

Rear main oil seal replacement has been covered in great detail here in the
Digest in the last year (if you've been archiving them).  You basically
need to drop the tranny, carefully pry out the old one, and carefully
install the new one making sure the seal lips aren't damaged or folded
wrong upon installation.  From what I understand, the worst part is dealing
with supporting the engine, removing and then reinstalling the
transmission.  The seal replacement is easy by comparison.  The IH shop
manual gives good insight into rear seal installation.

Take care,

John

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