Re: [alfa] Transmission mount removal/replacement

[Jon Pike <jhpike@xxxxxxx>]

> I've removed several transmission mounts with just a propane torch,
> hammer and a brass punch.  Heat up the boss around the mount until
> fairly warm (you can leave your bare hand on the boss for several
> seconds before it gets too hot).  Then use the hammer and brass punch to
> work the old mount out; no need to wallop the punch with the hammer,
> just tapping it will do nicely.  And I used the heat method to put the
> new mount (after coating the outside with anti-seize) in as well only
> using the hammer.
>
> 	Bruce
>
> 	'86 Spider
> 	'73 GTV
>
> Mark Denovich wrote:
>  
>
> > > > > Others have talked about heating the housing and freezing the mount then beating it in or out with a hammer. 
> > >      
> > > For the transaxle trunion mounts it's hard to beat using heat to remove 
> > > the old bushing.   These bushings have a thin rubber/plastic skin over 
> > > the metal shell.   You don't have to heat the mount up very much to 
> > > start to liquify this skin.   I can get an old trunion mount out in 
> > > about 2 or 3 minutes using this technique with a small propane torch.
> > >
> > > It's been a while since I've seen a 105 transmission mount... My guess 
> > > is that this would be no help as I think they have a bare metal shell.
> >    
> ------------------------------
Thought I'd chime in with my experience.

Did this a few weeks ago,  and both the new bushing I got, and the old 
one in there had no trace of a plastic coating on the metal shell.

I spent a while hunting up proper sized metal pipe to make a sleeve and 
press type of tool like Skip mentioned about a year or so back..  uses 
two short sections of pipe, something for washers, and a threaded rod.

What I ended up with was as follows: 
Inner section that presses the bushing - section of 2" water pipe, >2" 
long.  Perfect fit!
Outer section that presses against the ring boss of the transmission - 2 
7/8" chain link fence pipe.
Two floor flanges as washers for the ends - 1/2" pipe versions had small 
hole and large enough OD
One of my 3/8" x 12" threaded rods from the spring removal project.
Thickest washers I could find to cover the 1/2" holes in the floor flanges.

These are all available at your local hardware store,  except the chain 
link fence pipe in that size,  you may have to go to a fence shop.  
Fence pipe is measured from the OD not the ID, and that creates a 
different range of sizes.  No water pipe size is right for the ring boss 
on the tranny.

Worked well,  though heat was needed.  Nice aspect was that you could 
tension it and then heat till you hear it pop,  keep it above that temp 
and it goes nicely.

All that said,  I also discovered that once you heat up the ring 
enough,  it comes out so eaisly you might skip the press.  Mine might 
have started very hard,  but when I went to push it back in, I ended up 
tapping it with a wood block and it almost went thru and came out the 
other side.  Make sure you have the inner sleeve of the bushing oriented 
right, once it's in there you aren't adjusting it without a full removal!

I did have to heat the ring up very hot. (much hotter than easy to 
touch)  A problem is with all that aluminum is that the heat gets sucked 
out of the ring very fast... you need to keep evenly warming it with the 
torch for it not to bind up on you part way in or out.

So,  try the heat and tap method first,  if it's really stuck, make 
yourself the tool.

Jon
77 Spider
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