[ihc] Going Up!

["Peter Shubin" <pshubin@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Its time to lift my '72 Scout II.  I'm at one of those rare points in my
life when I will have the time to do the work and actually have a little
extra money to pay for the parts at the same time.  

 

I'm pretty much set on Triangle springs with 4 inches of lift and know what
other fixes and modifications I want to do as part of the process.  Prior
modifications include a 2 inch body lift, AMC V8 conversion, and wheel well
widening.

 

Scheduled as part of the lift process are;

*	New drive shafts - The old slip joints are over worn anyway.
*	Front Dana 44 - Anyone need a Dana 30 with bad drum brakes and
3:73's?
*	New tires and wheels - Probably 35x12.5s on the cheapest steel
wheels I could find.  I may even spend the money to go with 16 inch rims so
the tires will match the others vehicles I own.

 

Soon to follow the lift changes are;

*	Power steering conversion - I'm waiting until after the lift so I
can see what steering box to use.  I may want to find a taller one (lower
pitman arm position) from some other vehicle to help correct steering
geometry issues.
*	Rear disk brakes - The rear drums are bad but not as bad as the
fronts.  I will probably do this as part of the lift.
*	Shock mount relocation/shock replacement - The 2 inch body lift and
the AMC V8 conversion gave me room to play with the shock mounts so I
probably will.
*	Exhaust pipe extensions - I only installed turn down pipes behind
the mufflers because I did not know where the shocks and axle would site at
the time I did the V8 conversion.  The exhaust noise is loud, too loud, with
the tail pipes in this location.
*	R&P gear ratio change - farther in the future.

 

Here are some questions I have for the group and would appreciate some
suggestions.

*	What caster angle for the front end? - Why I have the front axle out
I want to have the knuckles cut and turned.  I have never been a fan of
driving something with 0 degrees of caster.  I want to add just enough in so
the steering returns to center rather promptly by itself and the vehicle
will want to track straight and wonder less at highway speeds or when
carrying a load.  What should I have built into the axle with this lift?  4
degrees?  6?
*	What size universal joints should I use in the drive shafts? -
Bigger is not necessarily better sine if they get too strong something else
will just break first.  I actually appreciate when something as cheap and
easy to replace as a universal joint fails.  So what is stronger but not too
strong?
*	What calipers and break lines should I look for? - This question is
for both the front and rear.  I want to have a functioning rear parking
break.  I have heard that Cadillac Eldorado calipers (year and part number
is around someplace) work fine but with all the new four wheel disk vehicles
on the road now is there something better?
*	Can I keep the break lines from my drums I have now if I go to four
wheel disks right away? - The vehicle has four wheel drums now and the brake
lines are in good shape.
*	Anyone have a master cylinder and power brake setup they suggest? -
I can always use a stock Scout II setup for a front disk only conversion
with a stock Scout II proportioning valve from a later year but if I go
straight to four wheel disks and am changing everything I might as well find
out what works best.
*	Should I plan on changing shackles with the Triangle springs?  If
yes, how long should I get or make them? - I would only change them for
function.  The combo body and spring lift gives me about the lift I want.
*	What else am I missing?
*	Where should/can I get the Triangle springs?  If someone knows of a
stiffer spring please let me know.

 

Thanks

 

Pete