Re: [ihc] 727 Rebuild & Shift kits?

[Colin M Rush <salmineo@xxxxxxxx>]

        Before you start ordering parts, or specifying parts, you should
ask what type of driving are you going to do?  Mostly towing?  Mostly
racing?  Mostly offroading?  Mostly highway driving?  That will help
dictate what clutch materials you use.  The band actuation lever may or
may not be a good choice, depending on what you are doing.  Yes it has
stronger apply, but at reduced actuation time, meaning longer shifts.  I
recommend the nitrided steel reactions most of the time, they run cooler,
and give longer wear under adverse conditions.  Both Borg-Warner and Alto
offer those, and I think Allomatic and Transtar offer those too.  For
just stock everyday driving, they may not be worth the money, though. 
Shift kits are good if you want to feel the shifts.  If you just want the
butter-smooth shifts like stock, then do not use them.  I did the trans
in John and Lisa Donnelly's TravelAll and Ken Zhoka's Terra in pure stock
form, and it shifts so smoothly, we had to drive both vehicles for about
10 miles before we could tell where the shift points were.  They were
ecstatic.  
        I also recommend a double-lip oil seal on the oil pump to
eliminate that typical convertor seep that happens on even new seals
usually.  I also recommend using a steel billet anti-pop rear servo, and
heavier servo retainer and ring, just as insurance.  Brand names do not
mean much.  For red linings, there is Alto, Raybestos, Allomatic, and
Borg-Warner.  For kevlar (green) paper, there is Raybestos, and I believe
one other company.  There is a high-energy friction by Borg-Warner, which
is a modern equivalent of the older metallic frictions.  There is regular
stock paper.  There is a graphitic (black) friction by some
manufacturers, Allomatic I believe.  Top of the line is the Raybestos
Blue Plate Specials, which are race only pieces, not for the street, and
also not available in band material.  
        I think TransGo makes the best shift kit.  They cost a little
more, but they are worth it.  B&M offers one, but the instructions suck. 
There are some items in the TransGo kit that do not come in the B&M kit,
but there is only one items in the B&M kit that does not come in the
TransGo kit (two if you are into racing).  That one item is an
accumulator spacer that can be made by you from a piece of tubing.  I can
give you the dimensions of that piece if you need, although your MoPar
trans tech should know how.  If you buy the B&M kit, you will need to buy
a Sonnax part to fill in the missing piece.
        If you need a new rear output shaft bearing, they are not
available new, anywhere, although I have heard that John Fleck has some
NOS ones.  However, there is a fellow in our club that is a bearing
supplier, and he makes new ones, and also rebuilds your old one.  He
rebuilt the one in John and Lisa's TravelAll, and made a brand new one
for our club Scout II project.  He can make/build them with either
standard steel ball bearings, or can make them with high-load ceramic
bearings, which makes it a much more heavy-duty unit.  I can get you his
name and number if you like.
        Other things to consider, which will dictated by what you are
going to do with the vehicle are: bolt-in rear sprag, deeper pan, brass
screen filter, high-capacity oil pump, remote air vent, 4, 5, or 6-pinion
planetaries, steel planetaries, and low gearset.  I actually think the
deep pan is a must-have, and include it on all my rebuilds.  I also use
the bolt-in sprag on all my rebuilds, just to CYA.  Convertors are
available in low-stall 12", and higher stall 11", for around $50.  The
11" units were used in IHC motorhome chassis, while the rest typically
used the 12".  There was a transmission parts supplier in my neighborhood
that told me last year he was due to release a 5-pinion planetary set for
the TorqueFlite for something like $60.  If you are interested, let me
know, and I will go see if he has it yet.  
        You need to have your radiator rebuilt if you do this.  I do not
warranty any transmission unless the radiator is rebuilt, and any
self-repecting shop would not either.  You also need to make sure you get
a new transmission mount.  Expensive, but if you are going to spend the
money on a trans rebuild, then go the distance and put in a new trans
mount.  Plus this helps support your local IHC supplier and keep them in
business so they are there when you need them.
        Anyway, you need to clarify what vehicle you have, and what you
want to do with it.
-Colin

Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 00:21:59 -0700
From: bearbvd@domain.elided (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: [ihc] 727 Rebuild & Shift kits?
 
At 5:55 PM 3/25/04, R.T. Sekhon wrote:
>My trany  is starting to act up. I'm getting some shutter in first
(maybe
>torque converter) and sometimes it will not go in to first, but will go
>into reverse. The fluid is is burnt and it leaks. I can get it rebuilt
for
>$150 plus parts by a trany tech for Dodge, who will do it on side. What
>are the best components for the rebuild? Alto? Raybestos, Borg Warner?
How
>about shift kits? Transgo? B&M? And torque converter stall speed?
>As alway any info is appreciated, and thanks in advance.
 
Alto Red or Raybestos Blue. Get new steels with the 'kynar ' (??)
(nitrided) from Alto.
 
If you look around a bit, you can get the stuff to run an extra disc in
the
clutches and a wider kick-down band.
 
There is a band actuation lever around that gives more leverage.
 
Try talking to Rick Allison at A&A transmission--somewhere in Indiana--
he
knows them well.
 
One of the RV type, high mileage converters is a good bet. Look for one
with a drain plug, needle bearings, and furnace brazed fins--
 
There are wider ratio (2.77/1.55/1.00) planetary gearsets available if
you want.
 
Greg

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