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RE: [ihc] T-stat basket case - I respond to my own post
At 10:39 AM 2/12/04, Steven Stegmann wrote:
>Jim,
>
>If *any* thermostat is installed backwards it will cause massive
>overheating. This is because the pellet, which is the temp sensing device,
>is on the cold side of the stat. Engine water can't get to it.
>
>As cold as it is where you are, I would install the correct RS thermostat
>and then probably cardboard the radiator anyway. You'll have to keep a
>close eye on it when using cardboard on the radiator. I've done it with
>several vehicles and it works but must be monitored because you've lost the
>automatic action of the thermostat. It can't move the cardboard.
The reason why God invented thermostatically operated radiator louvers, no
doubt !!
Greg
>
>Mine does warm up in single digit (+) weather. But takes longer.
>
>Steve
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-ihc@domain.elided [mailto:owner-ihc@domain.elided]On Behalf Of Jim
>Camery
>Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 9:59 AM
>To: ihc-digest@domain.elided
>Subject: [ihc] T-stat basket case - I respond to my own post
>
>
>Yeah, I did a crappy job of explaining what I meant by 'basket' going
>toward the rad or engine.
>
>The deal was is that my 345 just wouldn't heat up. Here in northern
>Wisconsin, we haven't seen 32* in a month and had a week where we never
>hit 0*. I could get the coolant up to 160* by completely covering the
>radiator w/cardboard.
>
>I suspected that the thermo was stuck open or that there wasn't one or
>that it was the wrong one or it was installed wrong or something else.
>
>When I pulled the housing apart, the thermostat fell out before I had a
>chance to see which direction it went. There was no brand markings on it
>other than '180*' stamped on the copper pellet (it maybe had some printed
>markings that had worn off). It doesn't look like the RS brand that I
>bought from John Fleck, so I assume it was a Stant. It was not stuck
>open, at least after it hit the concrete.
>
>My thought, though, is that a non-RS installed in any direction should
>cause the truck to overheat, not overcool, right? If it was upside down,
>the water current would push it closed unless there was such a venturi
>effect to overcome the spring. If it was rightside up, the truck would
>overheat because water wouldn't flow to the bypass.
>
>In any case, the issue is now just moot and theoretical. I have a 195* RS
>thermostat; I've sandblasted the scale out of the housings and painted
>them back to OEM Red; I'll put it back together tonight; and I'll have a
>working defroster tomorrow.
>
>--
>Jim Camery
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