[ihc] M/C Reservoirs Revisited (was Re: Another brake (?) Question)

["T.R.E.Jr." <T_R_E_Jr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

---I am thinking he is again going to tell you that what you need is a 4-way
disc master cylinder. From what I have heard in a previous post regarding
master cylinders and the difference between the reservoirs, is the larger
reservoir is actually for the disc because the caliper piston needs more
fluid to be pushed out and has to have the required capacity to retain that
fluid when the piston is retracted. I always though the larger reservoir was
for the rear/drums (not having paid close attention). Maybe someone will
notice the Subject line and chime in.

---The design on the ceramic piston is goofy if you ask me. The idea is so
heat is displaced quickly and the piston will not* swell. Well, on the `93
Cherokee we had, one piston was frozen and upon replacing the caliper, I
found a fleet or something (law enforcement preferred) steel-pistoned loaded
caliper with a larger piston, at my local Discount Auto Parts for 1/2 the
price of the ceramic-pistoned loaded caliper. The brakes had a noticeable
improvement with the steel pistons and yes, I replaced both when I found the
cheap ceramic pistons were in them and had to replace one rotor and both
sets of pads.

---Thank you,
-T.R.E.Jr.
-`73 Scout II (StoneThrower)
-`51 Farmall H (Heinz)
-`49 IH fridge (presently unnamed and in need of a compressor)
-`49 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-door Sedan (Papapalooza)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Bongo" <dbongo@domain.elided>
To: <jameslidberg@domain.elided>
Cc: "IHC Digest" <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: [ihc] Another brake (?) question


> James Lidberg wrote:
> >
> > From:                   David Bongo <dbongo@domain.elided>
> > Subject:                [ihc] Another brake (?) question
> > > something is "sticking" and the truck makes a funky noise, like the
> > > brakes are rubbing.
> >
> > If the rod between the master cylinder and the brake booster is too long
the brakes will drag.
> >
>
> I'll have my mechanic check it out.
>
> > Ceramic type disk brake pucks tend to stick in the calipers.
> >
> > If new pads are installed in old calipers the pucks might stick because
the calipers have gunk in them.
> >
>
> The rear calipers are brand new (well, freshly remanufactured) and the
> fronts have seen less than a year of service.  I can have the mechanic
> check it out, but it should all be OK.
>
> > Do any of the rotors get too hot?
> >
> > Warm is OK, hot is not.
> >
>
> Well, I checked the driver's (i.e. right side) front and rear today.  On
> the route, the front wheel was too hot to touch.  The rear wheel was
> warm, but uncomfortable.  This was when I was about 2/3 done with the
> route, so figure I made something like 350-400 stops in 1hr 45min.
> Roughly.  The brakes dragged signifcantly at the end of the route, but
> once I hit the open road (i.e. driving back to the office) it was all
> good.  The truck sat in the parking lot for about 15 minutes before I
> checked the wheels again, and the rear was cool, the driver's was warm,
> but not hot.
>
> About a week ago, there were no signs of excessive heat or wear on the
> rotors, as I specifically had the mechanic check for ANY signs of ANY
> problems.  (I'm a bozo in regards to brakes, so I just pay somebody for
> anything I'm even remotely unsure of.  Why take a chance?)