[ihc] Re: How to port and polish web sites, tool info (long)

[LIFTED79CJ7@xxxxxxx]

Thanks Collin, that is gonna help me out tremendously!!
Jack


In a message dated 11/26/2003 10:03:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, owner-ihc-digest@domain.elided writes:

> Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 16:45:48 -0800
> From: Colin M Rush <salmineo@domain.elided>
> Subject: [ihc] Re:  How to port and polish web sites, tool info (long)
> 
> Visit these sites here:
> http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm
> here:
> http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/07/homeporting/index.shtml
> and here:
> http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/nitrousheads.cfm
> 
> The last link pertains to head mods based on nitrous.  I put that in
> mainly because I do not know what your program is.  What you do with a
> head really depends on what kind of head you use.  For example, most of
> the porting info you will find out there uses the Chev small block as the
> reference, (or Ford in the case of the second link).  However, if you
> just jump into an AMC V8 head without talking to the folks who know AMC,
> you will not know to avoid the roof of the exhaust port, which has this
> curve that sure looks like it should be smoothed flat, and you will get
> happy with the grinder, and will grind right through the very thin roof
> into the water jacket, and then will then throw your heads away and get a
> Chevy and malign the (now) poor construction of the AMC motor.  Talk to
> some people who have been there before you and know what to look out for.
> If you are indeed working on a head for an IHC SV motor, chances are you
> will have no problems as they are pretty thick, but there are other
> things you can do to those heads that you may or may not want to do. 
> Some of those things consist of changing valve sizes or materials,
> plugging the AIR ports, installing hardened seats on the intake, bushing
> or sleeving the valve guides, and so on.  Do your research before you
> start grinding, cutting, or machining.  Spend the money on carbide burrs,
> and skip the stones; they cut faster, and can be resharpened.  The stones
> cost less, but take a lot longer, get fouled up easily (especially with
> aluminum or plastic) and are throwaway items when they are fouled or
> broken.  If they get chipped, they also get imbalanced, which is hard to
> control and bad for the grinder.
> 
> FYI, if anyone is looking for a great Christmas present, or needs a hint
> to drop their spouse for a gift idea, that Makita die grinder shown on
> the second link is what I have, and it is the most useful tool in my
> arsenal, hands down.  It cannot be used for drilling, but it has so many
> applications on other jobs, it makes me wonder how I got by without it. 
> Much better than a Dremel because it has some torque, but better than a
> regular air-powered die grinder because you can use it other places than
> just your garage, assuming you even have an air compressor (I do not). 
> It is relatively cheap (I think ours cost about $120 five years ago.)  My
> brother has used it on his boat.  I used it all the time to massage holes
> in all types of metal that may be just a little bit off-center or
> slightly too small.  My roommate uses it to grind the heads off of very
> small screws when he rebuilds carburetors.  And we have ported many sets
> of heads.  I have used it to install a furnace, and a friend used it to
> work on his RC car.  I have used it to deburr pipe and plate steel and
> engine blocks.  I have used it as a cutoff wheel.  In situations where a
> drill will not work, this tool is extremely handy.  Case in point, I sold
> some adaptors to a fellow that had the 4 bolt holes slightly off-center. 
> He spent an hour putting it on a drill press and using the drill to
> nibble away at the sides of the hole until the hole was in the right
> location.  I took one of the adaptors, held it in my hand, and fixed the
> problem with this tool in 5 minutes with a small carbide burr.  This die
> grinder also uses 1/4" shaft burrs and stones and sand roll arbors, but
> there is a collet sleeve you can put in it that also allows you to use
> all of the little bits that are made to fit the Dremel tool, which
> doubles the available tooling for it.  If I am in a bind, and cannot get
> a new burr, I can go to the local Home Depot and use Dremel bits to get
> me by until the weekday.
> 
> You will need to get a speed controller or else the die grinder spins too
> fast (25000 RPM) and the tool skips over the work.  Most of the time, we
> operate in the 3000 or less RPM range.  What you need to get is something
> called a router speed control.  The unit I have is a model RSC-15, shown
> here: 
> http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/spe
> edcon.html
> Do not just use a soldering iron voltage control, as it works
> differently.  The soldering iron voltage control varies the voltage, but
> at low speeds where you will use the die grinder, there is just no torque
> available, and the tool stops on the work.  Using the router speed
> control modulates the speed, but the torque is still there.  (I assume it
> varies the amperage available to the tool, but do not know exactly.) 
> Most of the time, you will be operating the die grinder with the knob set
> to the 1/4 to 1/2 position, or even less if you need to do precise work.
> 
> - -Colin Rush
> 
> 
> [ihc] How to port and polish web sites
> 
> Anybody know of any good sites that go into detail about how to do a good
> port and polsih job?  I am fairly new to it and want to learn as much as
> I can so I can make my engine a screamer when I rebuild it 
> this summer.
> Jack