Re: The Solution & Another Exhausting Problem: (Was: Re: When It Rains, It's Dead!)

[John Hofstetter <hofs@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

On Thursday, June 12, 2003, at 01:05  PM, Binder wrote:

> Here's the scoop: Once I got under the vehicle and looked up at the
> starter - or where the starter should be - the problem became obvious.
> It
> seems there was a 'protective shield' of some sort - intended to cover
> the
> starter terminals from shorting or collecting water, grime, etc., no
> doubt.
> Well... it gave up the ghost and fell against a terminal.  Nice weld
> mark on
> the inside of the 'shield' where it found a terminal on the starter.  I
> couldn't tell if this "shield" thing was an OEM piece of hardware or
> something the PO came up with.  So, as always, my problems remain
> esoteric -- never "by the book", always something odd & unusual
> <sigh!>!
> maybe 90 seconds to "fix".
Theres no way for me to know whether or not the shield was factory or
home made, but the vehicle did come with a heat shield that sat up
above the starter. It is held in place by manifold nuts that hold down
two ears with holes in them. The trouble is that the ears break off and
lets the shield fall down, as did yours. Most of us feel that the heat
shield serves a very useful purpose and get it or something like it
back up there. I welded new ears on mine, but others have replaced
their shields, with what I dont remember.
> A question: If this shield was shorting and preventing the Scout from
> starting, how come my battery was very "alive and well"?! Presumably it
> happened before or when I parked it last night, so it'd probably been
> sitting like that for hours.
I think the shield must have been laying so that you only had a direct
short when the solenoid was powered up. That explains the relatively
huge current draw when you turned the key. After running that many amps
through that light circuitry, you really do need the Ford conversion.
> BTW, I already can start my Scout in any gear I choose... so I wonder
> if
> this means the relay's already been bypassed.  I'll check someday!
That is due to the neutral safety switch not being active. Nothing to
do with the relay.
> Thanks to Ryan, John and Allan (and everyone else) for their help &
> guidance.  It sounds as if it would a Good Thing to do the Ford
> solenoid
> thing. I'll move that up a few notches on the projects list.
>
> =-=-=-=-=-=
>
> BTW, my most pressing problem seems to be an exhaust leak that needs
> attention. Exhaust is entering the cabin (and lots of it!). The
> problem is
> most pronounced when a window is open (apparently this sets up a drawl
> /
> draft from back to front). Opening all the windows seems to make the
> problem
> worse than not opening the windows.  I believe problem is some 'open
> air'/gap/space on the rear driver side fender is somewhat splayed out.
> The
> 'correct' fix is beyond me at the moment, but I need to cure the leak
> ASAP.
> I'm thinking of maybe riveting/screwing some sheet metal down - to
> form a
> patch/mold if nothing else - and fill the gap(s) with some of the
> insulating
> foam stuff (the cheapo expanding stuff) and see if this helps.
Pete, where the exhaust usually comes back into the cab is through the
tail gate. However, most Scouts dont have the splayed fender, so you
are probably right. If nothing else, the expanding foam could let you
know if thats where the gas is coming in. Then you could explore a
more permanent fix. Although the foam that sets up hard probably would
repair it permanently.

John