Knuckles

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

On Sun, 9 May 1999, Farmer wrote:

> 1980 Scout II  - Tom M: when are you going to write up details on that
>                  knuckle conversion?  I was just checking out Darrel K's
>                  and am thinking the same thing.

:-)

Well, the parts only arrived Thursday.. ;)

I *was* going to take the racer to the carwash to pressure wash as much 
rust out of the bed as I could (yesterday I decided I'd wire-wheel and 
paint AFTER the summer when I build the "proper" 'cage for it), but 
looking outside it's snowing...

I mention that, since any MOVING of the racer needs to take place before 
or after the conversion. ;-)

As I mentioned, the $125 Tri-County Gear knuckle showed up with the 
tie-rod hole chopped off, so it needs to go back.

I'm going to pull the original knuckle from the axle housing, and drill 
and tap it (or perhaps see if a local machinist would take care of that 
cheaply).

Looking at what I have, I could do this myself, except for the tapered 
holes used in the arm.  The $125 arm looks like it was cut from some 
thick bar stock (3x2?) with a bandsaw, but a grinder would do if one 
(like I) lacks a bandsaw.

The tricky part is the 3 holes for mounting to the knuckle.  If you look 
at either of your Travelalls, on the driver's side, the mounting system 
is the mirror.  Three holes in the knuckle with studs.  Then the arm goes 
onto the studs, but the arm has tapered holes in it.  Tapered 
"lock-washer" sleeves go into the holes, and then nuts go on top to cinch 
it down.  This is supposed to be to keep the alignment and eliminate 
*any* "slop" from an imperfect fit of a bolt/stud to the 1/2" hole in the 
arm.

I'm not sure what the tapered reamer costs.  I *think* I could use one on 
my drill press (isn't it like a bit with a "blade" end on it?  That's how 
the chuck attaches to the 'press).

Pretty straightforward overall.. 

I have some prelim pictures that need developed n' scanned.

-Tom