Re: Tapered Axle Shafts & brake parts

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

Wow!  I can't wait to locate another rear axle for this rig... I thought
I hated this axle when I heard I couldn't put a Lockright in it... it
just keeps getting worse!

Greg Hermann wrote:
> 
> Hi Tom--'63 sounds about right.

So - 63 Travelall.  11" drums.. would it then be a 3" wide drum?  They
ARE self adjusting.. NAPA was having a hard time locating anything (but
all of the "good" guys have left recently.. d'oh)

> What you need is what is called a "hub puller" with one of these and a bit
> of heat, you can get the hubs off of the axle shaft after removing the big
> nut. The inner bore of the wheel bearing inner race is tapered, and fits
> the same taper on the shaft as the hube does, just further in. Gotta get
> the hub off to get the bearing off.

It's a '44.  We pulled the axle shafts out with a slide-hammer.  The
'shafts came out, the brakes came off, and we pulled the 3.73 gears and
carrier out and put in a set of 4.88s in a "low" carrier - and replaced
the block on the cross-shaft.

> far side. This is done with shims behind one or both of the retainers for
> the wheel bearing outer races. There is an inner and an outer oil seal. The
> inner goes into the asle tube, the outer goes into the bearing retainer.
> Best way to assemble the Bi$%h is with the hubs off the axles. Put in new

I don't see "hubs" on this rear axle.  Just a flange like the other
semi-float '44s from my Scout IIs.

The axle was "fine" when we took it apart - we just changed the gears. 
The axle goes - outer flange (wheel hub/bolt), then the backing plate,
then the bearing race ("opens" inward to the diff) then the bearings
(tapered) and then a pressed on "thing" behind the bearing.

I tried to work some grease into the bearings and wiped out the
housing.  I then put the brake drum backing plate onto the housing.  I
then slid the axle shaft in, and engaged the spider gears.  I tapped the
axle shaft in with a hammer, then bolted the bearing retainer/flange
up.  I soaked the "big nut" on the passenger side axle shaft w/ WD40
prior to installation.

I put the pass side in first, but I didn't tighten up the
retainer/flange.  I then went around to the driver's side (agianst a
chain link fence I had to push out of the way.. great) and put the brake
backing plate on, clenaed the housing, did a fair job on the bearing,
then slid the 'shaft in and seated the bearing.  I bolted everything
together and even installed the drum and then a tire.  It still had play
at this point, but the passenger side hadn't been bolted together yet.

I set the driver's side down with a tire bolted to it.  The driver's
side drum and brake assembly is OK.  The passenger side needs a "C-clip"
to retain the e-brake "arm" that I robbed from a SII drum (this rear
axle only had the arm on one drum, but cut off cables on both sides).

I then bolted the passenger's side flange/retainer up and tighten it to
20ft-lbs, like I did the driver's side.  At this point, the passenger
side had NO play.  I put a tire on it (no drum - so I remember to
replace the C-clip) and set *it* down.. then went to the driver's side. 
I can wiggle the tire a little bit, but it could just be the drum a
little loose since I didn't fully torque the lug nuts.  It was late, so
I cleaned up and called it a night - at least my racer is on TWO tires
again (I have this fixation with seeing my racer on 4 tires.. hasn't
happened yet.. it's something of a "milestone" to reach)

I haven't done much with the "big nut" other then free it up
off-the-truck.

I know I need to lift the axle housing up and put it on jack stands..
probably pull the tires back off and check for end-play.  

Did the '63 w/ Tapered 'shafts have a different IH part number?  I'm
doubting my 71-74 Scout II service manual has a THING on this setup...
nor would my 72-79 Chilton's.

So before I go any further I consult the digest. ;-)

> of the axle shafts bear to get the side to side endplay fit. With a Powr
> Lok, there are two little hard buttons that press together over a split pin

It's an open diff.  I haven't located a PowerLok yet, and I think this
axle will be tossed before next summer in favor of a newer model - maybe
a '60.. anyone have a 5-lug semi-float T'all '60 they want to dump at
RMIHR?  

> shafts, then the brake shoes, then the drums. You need to have the taper on
> the shaft nice and clean & de-burred--both for the bearing and the hub--
> sh*t out of the big nut.  I would say AT LEAST 150 ft. lbs. This is a self
> locking taper, and you do NOT want it to come loose!!! If this nut is
> tightened properly, the cotter key is sort of like a belt and suspenders,
> it really does not do much, certainly not like the cotter key on a two

OK.. does this mean the wheel-bolt-flange (with the 5 bolt studs) COMES
OFF?

> Make NO mistake--THIS BIG NUT IS NOT FOR ADJUSTING--IT SHOULD BE, AND IS
> MEANT TO BE  HONKED UPON!!!

OK.. I'm still unsure how to go about getting to the nut to HONK on it..
and with what.  There's not a lot of room between the wheel flange and
the drum brake components.

> I have seen various vehicles do some VERY NASTY things when this design of
> hub comes undone!!!

I'm not interested in VERY NASTY THINGS.  Particularly when 1) racing or
2) I flat tow this creature to RMIHR..

> Hope this helps! Good luck!!

Sounds like I'm going to need the luck!

And my friend Mike asked, "Sure you want to use this axle now?"... I
should've just hauled a set of Scout II '44s over and put the 4.88s into
them, and skipped the full-width axle bit..

Day late and a dollar short - looks like I'm getting a 4.10 Ford 3/4T
8-bolt Dana 60 next Tuesday.. 

Thanks!

-Tom Mandera, Helena MT
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout