Re: Tapered Axle Shafts & brake parts

[bearbvd@domain.elided (Greg Hermann)]

>OK, I'm trying to figure out what I have for a rear axle in my racer - so
>I can get some brake parts!
>
>I believe we found a "3" on the build date.. 63 or 73 or 83.. found
>replacement 3.73s with 71 or something on 'em in the diff.  We're
>assuming it's a '63.
>
Hi Tom--'63 sounds about right.

What you need is what is called a "hub puller" with one of these and a bit
of heat, you can get the hubs off of the axle shaft after removing the big
nut. The inner bore of the wheel bearing inner race is tapered, and fits
the same taper on the shaft as the hube does, just further in. Gotta get
the hub off to get the bearing off.

You need to set the end play of one wheel bearing against the one on the
far side. This is done with shims behind one or both of the retainers for
the wheel bearing outer races. There is an inner and an outer oil seal. The
inner goes into the asle tube, the outer goes into the bearing retainer.
Best way to assemble the Bi$%h is with the hubs off the axles. Put in new
inner seals, "set" the (packed) bearings onto the taper on the axles, and
insert the axles, assemble backing plate and retainer on one side and
tighten its bolts, then go to the other side and select shims while
assembling it to get the end play. I like to go with .005" (play) to .000"
Books say looser.  About half the shims on each side is a good plan for
final assembly. There is a round block with a hole through it (sideways)
which fits over the spider shaft in the differ against which the inner ends
of the axle shafts bear to get the side to side endplay fit. With a Powr
Lok, there are two little hard buttons that press together over a split pin
and fit through the little holes in the middle of where the two spider
shafts cross. These buttons are OFTEN missing!! And setting the axle shafts
up to touch the two spider shafts in a PowrLok (without the buttons) WILL
1. keep the power Lok from working right. AND 2. break the spider shafts in
half soon enough. With either type of differ, you should be able to feel
the shaft on one side push and move the shaft on the other side, and they
should move together this way for about a quarter inch before anything in
the middle gets in the way (provides a stop). After you get the end play on
the axles set, and the bearing retainers and backing plates all installed
and tightened, and the end play checks out OK, with all of the bearing
retainer bolts torqued down, THEN it is time to install the hubs onto the
shafts, then the brake shoes, then the drums. You need to have the taper on
the shaft nice and clean & de-burred--both for the bearing and the hub--
and likewise for the taper bore in the hub. There IS a key for the hub. a
real light coat of grease on the taper is not a bad idea (makes removal a
bit less of a fight the nest time). Then put the hub on, and torque the
sh*t out of the big nut.  I would say AT LEAST 150 ft. lbs. This is a self
locking taper, and you do NOT want it to come loose!!! If this nut is
tightened properly, the cotter key is sort of like a belt and suspenders,
it really does not do much, certainly not like the cotter key on a two
wheel drive front spindle. The surface that mates with the outer grease
seal is actually on the hub, and you should also make sure that this
surface is clean and smooth, polished if possible, before assembling the
hub to the shaft.
>
>It's a Dana 44 w/ 30spline axle shafts.  Tapered.  With the large
>adjusting nut on one end,

Make NO mistake--THIS BIG NUT IS NOT FOR ADJUSTING--IT SHOULD BE, AND IS
MEANT TO BE  HONKED UPON!!!

I have seen various vehicles do some VERY NASTY things when this design of
hub comes undone!!!

The bearing adjustment is done with shims behind the bearing retainers, not
with the big nut!!

Hope this helps! Good luck!!

Regards, Greg