Re: Starter Questions

["Joseph M. Shaw, II" <MikeIIDC@domain.elided>]

Daniel Nees wrote:
> 
> Michael,
>    There will be 12V at the starter at all times because the battery
> cable goes directly from the battery to the starter. The switch, while
> it will alowe a small amount of juice through the gunk and crud inside
> the switch but not enough to allow full voltage for the starter to
> start.
> 
> Dan Nees
> cookiedan@domain.elided
> The
> "Good" 1979 Scout II  345/auto
> The
> "Bad" 1971 Scout II 304/T-18
> And the
> "Ugly" 1979 Scout II 345/auto
> 
> http://members.tripod.com/~IHCaholic/scoutindex.html


Dan-

Thanks again.  Makes a lot of sense, though I never would have thought
of it!
I just came back in and I got the thing to run for a while, goosing the
carb and playing with the choke by hand standing over the thing.  I
started it about ten times before the switch wouldn't work this time. 
After starting it a few times and having it fade out, I sprayed starter
fluid in it and it would start again.  However, after it got to the
point where it wouldn't start again, I tried goosing the throttle by
hand, and couldn't see any gas squirt, or smell any gas, but could see
some moisture appear where there was none in the "barrels" before.  I
would also see a little puff of "smoke" come out of the carb, I am
guessing that that is from the gas contacting hot metal after it drops
through the throttle into the intake manifold.  If this is so, I am
guessing that this is not a fuel delivery problem.  What do you think? 
I suppose it could just not be getting enough fuel, but then why would
it get enough to start and run for five minutes before dying?  I am
thinking it is a carb problem of some sort, where the choke is sticking
in a very wrong position, for if the engine starts to die, and I close
the valve, starving it of air, it revives.  It will then repeat this
behavior until I close it down again.  I have not been able to check
this behavior more than three or four times, as each time I try to let
it catch itself before "saving" it, and I don't always get it in time. 
Any ideas on this fuel system problem, anyone?
As for the starter, I have noticed that the "click" that I hear when the
starting system quits is behind the dash, or on the firewall, just to
the left of center, or the right of the glovebox.  When I look in the
engine compartment, this is right about where the "12 Volt Negative
Ground" box is, which has a "prestolite" mark on its bracket, and "IH
Electronic Ignition Control" printed right on the top.
Is this the mythical Gold Box?  Would it make a clicking noise if
something were wrong inside it?  Just one individual click, not a
repeated click.  Would something happen to one of these that would cause
it to malfunction while cold?  I know we usually talk about them acting
up when they're hot, but do they go when cold?  Would dirty/worn out
connections in the switching mechanism cause this as well?
Once again, any input is greatly appreciated, and I hope everyone is
enjoying their Thanksgiving!  Me and the trucks and the bike and the
dogs are having a great day!

Michael