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RE: Spring Lift



I'm trying to wade through 120 messages tonight, and wanted to finish
them before posting my first spring install update. But, since MIke
mentioned it...
I started as soon as I got home from work tonight on my lift. I jacked
the rear of the truck up and startered on the drivers side. BIG NOTE
Mike, when you are putting the front rear spring eye in you need to
spread the bracket a little to fit the bushing shoulders. DOUBLE BIG
NOTE do that eye first then lift the rear shackle up into place. WAY
easier.
   NOW the questions. Tom M what is that silicon grease from NAPA
called?
   I purchased Erick Foor's spring fastener kit. It includes Nylocks,
which I hate (I have to talk to him about this). I need to torque my
nuts up, but the book calls for 75-85 ft-lbs. That is really tight for
the poly bushings isn't it? It squashes the shoulders down. Am I trying
to tighten up to the steel sleave just like the stock rubber? Then I
should torque them to spec? even with the Nylocks?
   Now My last question. I had Triangle Spring make me new u-bolts. But
instead of 1/2" bolt like stock I had them make me 5/8" bolts for the
added strength. Now my spring brackets aren't drilled out for the 5/8"
holes. I tryed to burn the bracket with a torch but it is very thick and
my tip on the torch wouldn't direct enough heat to do it. Should I go
buy a 5/8" drill bit and open the holes up, then?

Dan Nees
cookiedan@domain.elided
I drove a brand new Scout II!
   1979 Scout II 345, Auto, 3.07's, Trak-Lok. One Ugly and Trusty Truck
with the Hat Trick. 

1971 Scout II 304, D30/44, D20, power steering.

http://members.tripod.com/~IHCaholic/scoutindex.html




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