keychains, Tom's smoking habit, CBs the other story...

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

David,

        Super Scout Specialists has about 3 different kinds including a fob 
type, and a can/bottle opener.  The prices I have seen at the shows are like $3.

Regards,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727 RE8000, Cibie40s, custom 
                rear tire rack, 6 different color body panels.
                Not much sport, all utility.
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727 Hummer brush guard, 
                3/4T rear springs, Hella Rallye 2000s, Con-Ferr 5x7,
                Class IV hitches front and rear, 3" Exhaust.
                1st Place, Rocky Mountain IH Rendezvous,
                3rd Place, Tulare IH Western Regionals.
         '74 IHC Travelall 150? 2wd 392/tf727 "The 'new' one"
                Factory AM/FM, Cruise, Tilt, AC, Captains Chairs.

-----INCLUDED MESSAGE FOLLOWS-----

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:52:03 +0000
From: David Nuenke <dnuenke@domain.elided>
Subject: Keychains

Does anyone know of anywhere where you can get IH logo key chains. I know from
my dad that they used to be quite abundnet around the company until the mid
eighties (he has been with Harvester for almost 30 years). However I have not
seen one around for years and am getting a little tired of repairing my
current one. (plastic model cement only works so well)

Thanks,
David Nuenke

------------------------------

Tom, 

        Now that I think of it,my bud's '64 80 with a 345 and double hump pan 
smoked very bright white with 9.5 quarts of oil in it from the previous owner.  
Are you sure this isn't you problem.  Don't believe the dipstick, and check it 
warm and cold, then drain, and see how much is in the bucket by pouring into 
empty oil containers, which every IH owner has more than enough of!

Hope that's it, and you can never get hurt by changing the oil too often!


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727 RE8000, Cibie40s, custom 
                rear tire rack, 6 different color body panels.
                Not much sport, all utility.
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727 Hummer brush guard, 
                3/4T rear springs, Hella Rallye 2000s, Con-Ferr 5x7,
                Class IV hitches front and rear, 3" Exhaust.
                1st Place, Rocky Mountain IH Rendezvous,
                3rd Place, Tulare IH Western Regionals.
         '74 IHC Travelall 150? 2wd 392/tf727 "The 'new' one"
                Factory AM/FM, Cruise, Tilt, AC, Captains Chairs.

-----INCLUDED MESSAGE FOLLOWS-----

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 23:10:57 -0600 (MDT)
From: Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>
Subject: White Smoke

Hmm...

Pulled the rad cap on the '72 tonight and warmed the truck up.. 
antifreeze overflowed into the driveway, but no bubbles.. still white 
smoke tho'.

Water in the 1.5yr old gas?  ?  Something else?...

- -Tom (can't wait to get that V8 in.. gotta pull the T15/D20 tomorrow or 
Wed, so I can have the flywheel resurfaced n' such before Friday night..)

------------------------------

Epp,

        There are a couple of gospel truths about CB antenna mounting.  Buy the 
most expensive antenna you can afford.  Buy a SWR meter from Radio Shack ($20), 
Skimp on the radio, not the antenna.  Bigger is ALWAYS better.  Make the tip as 
high as possible/feasible.  Make your mounting as close to the center of the 
vehicle as possible.  Explanations follow:

        The most expensive may be a lie, but buy a good one, don't buy a 
cheapie.  The 60" FireStik II that I have was only $20 and is capable of 100W, 
and also 10 or 11m Ham bands.  This antenna I believe to be the only exception 
to the better=expensive rule.  The SWR meter is necessary!  If you have a 
million dollar set-up you wont get &*$!@# without a good SWR (Standing Wave 
Ratio).  Basically, this is the ratio between how much energy is wasted inside 
the resonance of the antenna, and how much is transmitted.  The closer to 1 the 
better.  At 3, it's really bad, and most people don't even check this!  I have 
tuned poeple's old setups and they have commented on much better service and 
range!  Almost every radio you buy is 40ch. and 4Watts output power.  This is 
the legal limit.  They all do this, some have gadgets, some don't, but $40 will 
get you a decent radio almost anywhere, the antennas you need to shop for.  The 
larger the antenna, the easier it is to tune, and the better your range will be 
since you will be higher than other obstacles.  I put my antenna on the rack on 
top of my 4x4 Travelall with a 6" lift, and I can get about 7 miles, which I 
hear is phenomenal from a 4w unboosted output signal.  Don't be confused by 8W 
claims on the box, this is the audio power to the speaker, NOT the output power 
of the radio.  As high as you can make the tip of the antenna and the straigher 
you can keep it while driving the better you'll be.  You're radiating disks into
space around the antenna, like records stacked on a pencil.  The straighter it 
is, the more efficient it is.  The center of the vehicle means you have the best
Ground Plane.  This is the reflective (RF) surface off which the signal can 
'bounce' into the air.  If you have bad ground plane then your signal sill be 
absorbed into the vehicle and won't reflect outward.  Just make sure that you 
attach the 'pole' you are going to use, to ground, and leave the antenna 
isolated from that, but, by all means get the SWR meter!  I can run a 1.05 on 
mine which is like 3.99 Watts Tx.  And, I've got a 13 foot antenna top!  Radio 
shack sells a 102" antenna that supposedly is not needed to be tuned, but I have
yet to install it, it sits inmy garage, waiting to go on the 74.  WAY TOO BIG to
put on my 75, then the top would be 7'(truck)+8'6"(102"/12")=15'6".

        Try www.firestik.com or something like that, there is a whole info set 
of FAQS if you search for FireStik.

        Best of luck with this, and if you or anyone else has comments of 
complaints about what I've said, I'd love to discuss them, I'm always open to 
more power/range/etc.!


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727 RE8000, Cibie40s, custom 
                rear tire rack, 6 different color body panels.
                Not much sport, all utility.
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727 Hummer brush guard, 
                3/4T rear springs, Hella Rallye 2000s, Con-Ferr 5x7,
                Class IV hitches front and rear, 3" Exhaust.
                1st Place, Rocky Mountain IH Rendezvous,
                3rd Place, Tulare IH Western Regionals.
         '74 IHC Travelall 150? 2wd 392/tf727 "The 'new' one"
                Factory AM/FM, Cruise, Tilt, AC, Captains Chairs.

-----INCLUDED MESSAGE FOLLOWS-----

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 07:34:49 -0500 
From: "Eppinger.Michael" <Eppinger.Michael@domain.elided>
Subject: CB attena mounting question for the experts

IH all,
I know there are some CB guru's out there, so here is a question about
the attena mounting.  I have a Terra with a fiberglass top on it.  I
have a magentic mount attena, that I am using with my cb.  I was
thinking of adding a metal "pole" to the rear bulkhead, so the attena
would stick to the top of this pole.  I figure that I would make the
"pole" about the height of the cab top, so the attena would be above the
terra top.  Will this work well, or does this affect the infamous
"ground plane" effect that you want?  Anyone have some input on this.
Is this worrying over a gnat's @ss? or is this a poor performing idea?

Epp
ready for the Nat's

------------------------------