Torque/HP specs, rear main seals, T'all gates.

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

Bryan's 800 question.

Bryan, I have 2 392s and I was under the impression they were rated more
like 250hp/365 ft-lb  2400/3600 or some such.

        Good luck, and I'll check my manuals for the numbers...


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727 RE8000, Cibie40s, custom 
                rear tire rack, 6 different color body panels.
                Not much sport, all utility.
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727 Hummer brush guard, 
                3/4T rear springs, Hella Rallye 2000s, Con-Ferr 5x7,
                Class IV hitches front and rear, 3" Exhaust.
                1st Place, Rocky Mountain IH Rendezvous,
                3rd Place, Tulare IH Western Regionals.
         '74 IHC Travelall 150? 2wd 392/tf727 "The 'new' one"
                Factory AM/FM, Cruise, Tilt, AC, Captains Chairs.

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Alice,

        I picked up a rear main seal about 4 months ago for $19.  Of course,
that was my shop cost, and it was a Fel-Pro, but I can't believe that the
consumer cost is much more.

        Good luck, and I got mine at an independant auto parts store
in Tucson, called Merle's.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727 RE8000, Cibie40s, custom 
                rear tire rack, 6 different color body panels.
                Not much sport, all utility.
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727 Hummer brush guard, 
                3/4T rear springs, Hella Rallye 2000s, Con-Ferr 5x7,
                Class IV hitches front and rear, 3" Exhaust.
                1st Place, Rocky Mountain IH Rendezvous,
                3rd Place, Tulare IH Western Regionals.
         '74 IHC Travelall 150? 2wd 392/tf727 "The 'new' one"
                Factory AM/FM, Cruise, Tilt, AC, Captains Chairs.

-----INCLUDED MESSAGE FOLLOWS-----

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:31:15 +0000
From: alice@domain.elided
Subject: SeekingEngineRearSealAdvice

I have a nasty oil leak in the rear of my 196 engine.  I assume the 
rear seal has perished.  NAPA showed this part to me (large ring), 
priced at about $35.  Is this too much to pay?  Does NAPA source
a quality part?  Anybody been here before to advise me?  Thanks!

------------------------------

Scot,

        I broke the back glass on my 74 and found out that I would never have
figured out how the guy before me wired it had I not broken the glass to get in 
there.  The ket is gone, the electrics are wasted and the safety switch is 
goofed, not to mention that the interior panel is too wide to pull off while the
gate is closed, and the lever to open the door is broken inside!  What follows 
is a description of how the 69-75 Travelall rear gate is wired.

        There are three wires running from the dash mounted switch.  The three 
consist of a 12v wire from the switched ignition, and the other two are the 
'activate' lines to the rear gate.  These lines are switched at the gate to 
provide for opposite polarity for up/down operation.  There is a large blue wire
~10ga. running the length of the truck and then split into a 'Y' in the gate to 
provide motor power when switched.  There are two relays in the gate; one for up
and one for down.  The ground side of the activator coil on these relays, is 
tied to a safety switch on the left (drivers') side of the gate so that the 
window will not go either way when the gate is down.  This safety switch may 
allow the window to retract when down, though I never really checked on this.  
The switch is a huge PITA, and I just made a tab that would ground the wire 
directly, as I don't figure on rolling the window up OR down while the gate is 
open, and it sure is helpful to be able to work the window with the gate down, 
when I need to fix the gate internals for the latch or lube the tracks etc.  So 
the first step is to ground the safety switch.  Now, the positive sides of the 
activate coils on the up and down relays in the gate come from the dash mounted 
switch.  This means that when you work the switch, all you are doing is closing 
a relay, either up or down.  This way, not too much current is going through the
dash or the switch.  The fat, light blue wire in the gate that splits into a 'Y'
is going to the Common side of each relay.  The Normally Open side of each relay
runs to the wires that run into the motor.  The relays switch positive/negative,
or negative/positive, depending on which relay you activate.  If you want to 
make the motor work by itself, just connect the wires to the motor to a battery,
then remove quickly.  Then reverse the wires, for reverse direction.  The wiring
in my 74 (which I am doing now, is totally covered in 5 inches of desert silt, 
so I am slow going.  The 75 has been a year of working flawlessly and I haven't 
the gumption to open it up.

        Good luck, and I hope this helps.  Sorry for the length.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727 RE8000, Cibie40s, custom 
                rear tire rack, 6 different color body panels.
                Not much sport, all utility.
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727 Hummer brush guard, 
                3/4T rear springs, Hella Rallye 2000s, Con-Ferr 5x7,
                Class IV hitches front and rear, 3" Exhaust.
                1st Place, Rocky Mountain IH Rendezvous,
                3rd Place, Tulare IH Western Regionals.
         '74 IHC Travelall 150? 2wd 392/tf727 "The 'new' one"
                Factory AM/FM, Cruise, Tilt, AC, Captains Chairs.

-----INCLUDED MESSAGE FOLLOWS-----

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:02:08 -0500
From: Scot Clayton <bindersc@domain.elided>
Subject: TravelAll Tailgates

Well, finally got a motor picked up and installed in the TravelAll Tailgate. The
motor works but I need to know how it's "supposed" to be wired. It will operate
the window by feeding 12 volts to the motor (up) and reversing the polarity to
pull it down. Anyone know how it was "supposed" to be wired?
- --Scot
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Just Scout'n Around - Wichita, KS
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