Re: ihc-digest V5 #197

[<hofs@domain.elided>]

>I have the same problem.  I heard not too long ago that 
>Russel (sp?) came out with a special breeder screw that has 
>a check valve in it.  To bleed the brakes, you just attach a hose,
>run it into a cup, open the valve, and pump away, until no
>bubbles, then move to next wheel.  Question is,
>has anyone tried these?
>
>Allan Weidenheimer
>72 1210 Pickup

I've had a number of one man bleeding devices over the years and they all 
accomplished their purpose as I remember. Actually, if you ran a hose 
from the bleeder screw down into a bottle of fluid you could pump to your 
hearts content without drawing air back into the cylinder. The problem 
there is you are probably sucking dirty fluid back in during part of the 
cycle. There is no doubt in my mind that a power bleeder does a much 
better job with much less work. By better job, I mean that it gets more 
air out. Scouts though don't usually present much of a problem with 
trapped air. Still the power bleeder is easier and better. 

Procedure for bleeding by pumping: Remember as you bleed, you start with 
the cylinder farthest away from the master cylinder and work back toward 
the master cylinder. When you've done all four, bleed the farthest away 
one more time.
In regard to power bleeders, now when some master cylinders are tilted as 
in some of the Chevys, bleeding by pumping the brake pedal is considered 
not to work well enough to even be an option, and a power bleeder is 
necessary. 
Hope you find this helpful.
John   

John Hofstetter  "Ol'Saline's Web Site" www.goldrush.com/~hofs
Life Member, National Rifle Association     California Rifle and Pistol 
Asc.
Member, Sierra Macintosh Users Group  Member, MacTwain Macintosh Users 
Group
Charter Member, FRIENDS OF DEATH VALLEY   Member, Blue Ribbon Coalition
Life Member, Association of California School Administrators
Owner of 79 Scout Terra "It's a legend"