RE: <E30>Oil pan gasket questions

[Daniel Chenault <DanielC@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

There appears to be some contention as to whether or not the block and
pan are aluminum or not in this model as I have gotten quite a bit of
mail asking if I'm sure. I don't know; another person told me offlist.
Perhaps that person could post to the list his source.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel Chenault [mailto:DanielC@domain.elided]
> Sent: Thursday, August 12, 1999 12:08 AM
> To: 'Pearson-Franks Family'; emh1@domain.elided
> Cc: bmw@domain.elided
> Subject: RE: <E30>Oil pan gasket questions
> 
> 
> It was pointed out to me off-line that the block and pan on 
> this engine
> are both aluminum. Don't use a wire wheel brush; fine sandpaper backed
> by a wood block.
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Pearson-Franks Family [mailto:pearsonf@domain.elided]
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 1999 11:18 PM
> > To: emh1@domain.elided
> > Cc: bmw@domain.elided
> > Subject: <E30>Oil pan gasket questions
> > 
> > 
> > Hi, Eric!
> > 
> > Several comments on your oil pan question:
> > 
> > 1)  First, please note the series number in the Subject line.
> >     This helps those of us who skim a lot of these looking
> >     for the topics of interest.  Just a thought.
> > 2)  This is a common failure, so count on it getting worse.
> > 3)  The previous post was correct in it's conclusion:  replacing
> >     this gasket will not trigger additional failures.
> > 4)  You will gain working room by removing two through-bolts
> >     securing the steering rack and letting it dangle.
> > 5)  You may have to remove the power steering pump mounts
> >     and swing out of the way.
> > 6)  It is not _necessary_ to loosen the engine mounts and
> >     suspend it from above, but if you can, do.
> > 7)  You will have to remove the oil pump to disengage the
> >     oil pan; two 13mm cap screws in front and one 10mm on
> >     the back.  Obnoxious, but doable.
> > 8)  If you are planning to own the car for a long time, put
> >     in a new oil pump - $150ish, and they _do_ wear out.
> > 9)  Technically, you do not need to use a sealant on the
> >     gasket, but you will find it much easier to reinstall
> >     if you 'glue' it to the pan surface with a non-hardening
> >     sealant to keep it from dropping inside when you wrestle
> >     first the oil pump, then the pan back into position.
> > 10) Can't tell from your address if you live in the Salt Belt,
> >     but if you do, or your ride did, you will want to clear
> >     all the pan bolt holes with a 6mm tap, and clean and lube
> >     the pan bolts as well.  The part that sticks up above the
> >     block will be rusty.
> > 
> > Any specific questions, drop me a note.
> > 
> > Later, Larry F.
> > 
> > >Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 21:12:31 -0400
> > >From: "Eric M. Hunt" <emh1@domain.elided>
> > >Subject: Oil pan gasket questions
> > >
> > >I have an '87 325iC with 150K.  The oil pan is slightly 
> > leaky and may be
> > >getting worse.  My question:
> > >
> > >Q:    Should one replace an oil pan gasket on this old of a 
> > car?  I have
> > >heard that if you replace the gasket, the "top end" or head 
> > gasket/valve
> > >cover gasket will then leak as a result?  Is this true?  Is 
> > this okay to
> > >do?
> > >
> > >Q:    When replacing the gasket, should a sealant be used?  I have
> > >purchased the factory, cork-type gasket.
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Eric Hunt
> > >
> > >
> > 
> > Larry Franks
> > Issaquah, Washington
> > '95 540i/6
> > '86 535i
> > '83 245 GLT  (Swedish iron)
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 

------------------------------