<e34>Rear rotor is stuck responses(long)

[Steve Rowe <srowe@xxxxxxxx>]

I sent out last Friday the following:
Ok, After I pulled off the caliper, carrier, hex screw, loosened the=20
parking brake, and applied penetrating oil I still cannot get the rotor to=
=20
budge off of the hub. What is next?
I know that the parking brake is loose because I worked on the adjuster=20
that is inside the car (under the parking brake boot) and the hub/rotor=20
turns. The 2 hours I allotted to doing brakes on both wheels was eaten just=
=20
with this frustration.
******************************
The following were the digesters' recommendations: )
****************************
Just bash it with a hammer!!!! Honest - it worked wonders! I hit it all the
way round, hitting along the line of the car - not trying to hit the thing
off, but loosening the rust/seizing stuff between the hub and brake.
Whether this will work with disks I don't actually know! Don't hold me
responsible if you knacker your brakes!
******************************
The rear rotors fit with a very close fit over the hub-centric boss.=20
A little rust on the boss or the rotor and their stuck!!!!=20
First if you need to remove as much of the rust on the boss as=20
possible(sandpaper, wire brush)=20
Block the opposite wheel to assist in rotating the rotor on the boss.=20
1) You can try knocking the rotor off with a hammer from the back side.=20
Hit the rotor were the caliper cutout is on the splash shield. Use a=20
piece of wood to protest the rotor from the hammer blows.=20
2) If you aren't going to reuse the rotors, I've used a large 3 jaw=20
puller, on really, really stuck rotors!!=20
3) Another method is to remove the rust with the assistance of muriatic=20
acid. The acid will devolve the rust and free up the rotor boss clearence.=
=20
This will take more time and would be used in conjuntion with suggestion=20
#1.=20
When you Install new rotors apply a small amount of synthetic grease to the=
=20
boss (before and after you install the rotor) and paint the hole in the=20
rotor to prevent the corrosion(keep the grease and the paint off the hub=20
and rotor flange surfaces!!
****************
If the rotor turns in a full circle, then its either rusted to the hub=20
flange, or, the rotor is hung up on the parking brake shoes. You didn't say=
=20
if it would move out a little or is stuck solid. For the latter, try a few=
=20
whacks with the hammer on the hat part of the rotor to break the rust. I've=
=20
had some success undoing the shoe retaining pins from the back of the=20
backing plate. Or, you may be able to turn the adjusters and retract the=20
shoes enough to get the rotor over them.
*****************
Steve - this happened to one of my front rotors. It would not come loose=20
so in a panic I called a fellow club member who lives nearby. He told me=20
to basically grab a hammer and bash the s**t out of the rotor from behind=20
until it came loose; he said to "get ugly"(!) with it if need be. So, I=20
grabbed my 2 lb. hand sledge and proceeded to have at it. Eventually it=20
did come off, but man, what noise!! If you choose to do this watch that=20
when it does come off your FEET are out of the way (don't ask me how I=20
know).
Happy Clanging...
*****************
The following is the recommendation from the gentlemen (Bill Shook) who does
the servicing and (track) inspections on my car.
I paraphrase: "Beat it with something soft, like a dead-blow hammer 'till it
comes off. I know what you're going through (snicker). Just beat on it."
****************
Well, since EVERYONE was in agreement, I was convinced. And since I have a
Sears Hardware store nearby (with a sale going on) I got me the biggest
rubber/dead-blow hammer they had: ) Kind of a cathartic reaction, I REALLY=
 HAD
FUN BEATING THOSE ROTORS. And I still have all of my toes; )

Steve
*****************************
'91 525i (BL/SS, 142k, Redline, chip)oo=3D(||)(||) oo
'88 Cherokee (4.0, 151k, 242, Redline)=7F||||||||=7F

------------------------------