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[bmw] Re: EI questions & suggestions.
- To: Gregory Bradbury <gregory891@xxxxxxxxxxx>, bmw digest <bmw-digest@xxxxxxxxxx>
- Subject: [bmw] Re: EI questions & suggestions.
- From: jkerouac <jkerouac@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 10:17:16 -0700
- In-reply-to: <Law9-F50R9Z9EGcrChN00005737@domain.elided>
- References: <Law9-F50R9Z9EGcrChN00005737@domain.elided>
- Sender: owner-bmw@xxxxxxxxxx
- User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; WinNT4.0; en-US; rv:1.4) Gecko/20030624
Hi Gregory,
Sounds like you're researching this project well.
If you have the 40 degree advance distributor, that will be good. The
Allison optical ignition is know nto have reliability problems. The
Mallory is a power pack with a magnetic pickup that directly screws in
place of the Bosch points. Fully compatible with any coil. There is
no positioning requirement as with the Allison.
I suggest this:
The change to make is with how you connect the advance/retard
unit. Don't use the retard side. You might like disconnecting the
advance side too. If I found the an engine ran better this way, then I
would crimp the slots on the distributor breaker plate tight against the
sliding section to make effectively a solid breaker plate. Leave the
vacuum lines and advance/retard unit in place to keep the emissions
police happy. You can plug the vacuum lines with a sheet metal screw at
the manifold. Less parasitic vacuum loss also means more power and
quicker throttle response.
Set the 40 degree total advance at 4500 rpm. Do this with the
advance unit disconnected, vacuum lines plugged. That will insure the
distributor is fully advanced. This should be the same position as you
would get if you position the engine and distributor at #1 top dead
center with the engine not running. Then you can measure the timing as
RPMs drop to find the point where full advance begins. Partial curve
timing is unreliable because destributors wear and advance springs
stretch. A stretched out spring brings on the advance sooner than new
stiff ones.
If you can get the Mallory coil, its hotter than anything else.
Once I learned about NGK wires I stopped looking for anything else. As
you might have found with the Japanese cars, these wires last forever.
With their low cost and the way NGK wires perform, high priced exotic
wires were not worth trying.
The 3 or 4 electrode RX7 NGK plugs were the best I found. I
plugged the wires directly to the plugs, not using the factory plug
resistors. The 6 heat range was best, unless you ran 10:1 compressions
like on the 2002 tii. Curious how BMW and many other manufacturers now
use 4 electrode plugs as standard equipment.
Good luck,
Barry
Gregory Bradbury wrote:
Hi Jerry (guess it's your name, you didn't sign your message).
Thanks for the tips. I was considering a Crane/Allison system, as
they make the pickup bits specifically for a BMW/Bosch 6 cyl
distributor. Yes I did consider the advance / retard curve
situation. I terribly boring one is a US E12 530i. However Euro
distributors (I live in Switzerland and the car was built at BMW South
Africa) had / have more "interesting" curves.
This specific Bosch dist is 0.2.237.302.010, used on Euro 525, 630,
728 & 730 cars with EI. The cars had the Solex 4 bbl carb. Timing is
to be set at 22 degrees BTDC at 1500 rpm (525) or 1700 rpm (630, 728 &
730). Final advance is 40 degrees (+/- 3) at 3700 and 38 degrees (+/-
3) for the 630, 728, 730. Believe this is rather close to E3 / E9
territory.
The vacuum advance is 12-16 degrees and retard 10-14. Has vaccum
ports for both.
Taking your advice SERIOUSLY, one should:
a) Have a good curve: My dist should do this, but would like your
advice.
b) Have a hot spark. I can upgrade to a hotter Bosch or Allison coil
to get this with either my points set-up, EI upgrade or aftermarket
upgrade.
c) Burn better (RX-7 type plugs are a good idea. Normal heat range
should be 6 for older 9 or 9.3:1 engines, good idea.) Any idea how
well they would work with a factory EI system with or without a hotter
coil?
d) Better wires. Factory EI wires are good, I ALWAYS was a fan of NGK
wires and put them on any of the Jap cars I owned. How about using
Magnacore or other wire alternatives?
The other considerations are that:
a) Switzerland has serious pollution tests (annual for non-cat cars)
and it's a more serious that California. They look at CO, HC and
smoke. No jokes here !!
b) I have plans for vintage racing, so a factory looking system has an
advantage. I don't believe they would allow an aftermarket system.
Your thoughts and ideas are valuable, would appreciate more of your
comments.
Best regards,
Greg
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