[alfa] Suspension bolt torque disaster

[AlfaNeely@xxxxxxx]

       I ALWAYS clean bolt threads either with a thread chaser, tap and die 
set or a wire brush in my bench grinder.  I ALWAYS start the nuts with my 
fingers and turn them as far down as I can with my fingers.
       I suspect your threads were dirty and / or you started the nuts 
crooked and tried to tighten them, thus stripping the threads.  
       The torque wrench is for final tightening of the bolt.  You do not 
need a torque wrench other that at the end of attaching a bolt or nut.
       Cut the bad bolts out one at a time.  Put a floor jack under the lower 
pan for safety.  Replace each bolt with your all thread after you cut it out.
       I have cut up a number of junk Alfas.  If you cannot find new bolts, 
let me know.

Ciao,
Russ Neely
Oklahoma City


In a message dated 9/14/2003 11:16:22 AM Central Daylight Time, 
owner-alfa-digest@domain.elided writes:

> Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 20:59:00 -0700
> From: Jon Pike <jhpike@domain.elided>
> Subject: [alfa] Suspension bolt torque disaster
> 
> OK,  We've somehow done it again..
> 
> Marcia and I were putting the spring pan back up, on our Spider's 
> disassembled front suspension,  and after she replaced the threaded rods 
> with the original bolts,  I had the job of torquing things up.
> 
> Well,  the first one started tightening,  and thinking I was perhaps 
> flattening a slightly cupped washer I kept going..  and going...  Sure 
> enough,  the (#*%^ thing no longer gets tighter.  Not fully appriciating 
> that disaster has happened,  after all, the wrench was set to the right 
> torque, (61-66 ft/lb, I set to 62) and another bolt firmed up and held 
> nicely, earlier.. I tried a second bolt... the same thing happened!!
> 
> I now have the two outer (closer to the wheel) bolts of the spring pan 
> with compromised threads,  and no longer loosening. 
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1.  Can I trust the other bolt to hold while I cut off the nut or bolt 
> head to get the other out?  I'm assuming that both outer bolts having 
> problems is a rather dangerous situation.
> 
> 2.  What's the best way to get these out,  without risking a spring 
> accident?
> 
> 3.  Since one is the special double ended bolt that is used to attach 
> the swaybar link block to the spring pan,  where can I find a 
> replacement part?
> 
> 4. Why the hell did this happen? Could it be my cheap torque wrench is 
> way off?  I didn't clean the threads completley, can some dirt cause 
> failure?  Were the nuts or bolt threads possibly damaged and ready to 
> fail? Is there some thing we missed someplace about doing this job?
> 
> 5.  Should one always use brand new fasteners in cases like this? 
> 
> This is very frustrating,  since after a while languishing, we were 
> making good progress towards getting the car back on the road lately..  
> and disturbing in that I either have a torque wrench that is very far 
> off  (I torqued the mains and rod bearings with that wrench!!!!)  or the 
> hardware holding the suspension together might be suspect.  Or,  it's 
> something else..   I'm hoping the last.. and I'm going to go out and 
> spend some real money on a GOOD torque wrench after all!
> 
> Anyone have an opinion whether a somewhat dirty bolt and nut,  with a 
> large amount of force on them (spring pan force from the pan flexing a 
> bit) could do something like create enough localized heat to detemper 
> the threads while being tightened?  I'm guessing wildly here,  hoping 
> for some understandable explanation. 
> 
> And hoping that someone else has been here,  done that,  figured out how 
> to avoid it next time..
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Jon and Marcia
> 77 Spider
> Irvine CA
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