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RE: [alfa] Front spring removal



I went through the first half of this (letting 'em down) a while ago.. soon to go thru the second half. (cranking them back up)

I recall reading there is about 1650 lbs in them thar springs under full compression, which might not make sense till you realize the suspension has greater leverage on them, being farther down the arm to the pivot than the end of the wheel is..
Anyway.. even though I've been told about using a jack carefully, I opted for the threaded rods as well.
Of course I thought about it too much (as I do) and just about talked myself into 4 specially hardened 3/8ths rods.. till I realized each one could handle 4000 lbs!! ;-) I got regular 3/8ths allthread, which had benifits of A. being close to the diameter of the original bolts, preventing the bolt from "walking" around in the hole as much.. and B. having a coarser thread pitch, for less turning and turning and turning... Finding a appropriatly sized thick washer to make a shim stack of to space the nut out from the bottom of the spring pan for easy wrenching is a good thing as well. Rods need to be at least 8" long AFAIR, mine were 10" which left comfortable room for placing the nuts on the ends..

The thing I'm thinking about though, with all the cranking, is I may use a hybrid approach on the way back: put in the rods, and use the jack to reasonably remove slack in stages, to speed up the process. Then again, if you favor your forearms sporting the Popeye the Sailor Man look... you should skip the jack!

Jon
77 Spider
Irvine, CA


Thanks Jeff.

Good point on installation. Which got me thinking...

With the jack under the spring pan, when I remove the last bolt from the pan to the a-arm, the car might launch itself upward as the spring uncompresses, with nothing keeping tension between the pan and the a-arm holes. As the car launches itself upward, the jack comes off the pan and I end up in hospital.

Ok, threaded rod it is! I knew there was a reason this was a bad idea.

- -Peter



Peter -
You could probably remove the springs this way, if you're careful. In fact,
I'd probably still put the threaded rod through the holes with nuts and
washers on the ends as kind of a safety.

I'd be more concerned about putting them back in ... you'll probably start
picking the car up off the jack stands before you compress the spring enough
to get the bolts in.
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