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Upper A-arm ball joint problem
It sounds like you got the nut started crooked. I always start nuts
and turn them as far as possible by hand. Do not use a wrench until the nut is
almost tight - or in the case of locking nuts, until it hits the locking
mechanism. A castellated nut should tighten all the way by hand.
Or the threads could have been crap from the factory. Again, turning
the nut down by hand should have disclosed that fact.
Put upward pressure on the top of the ball joint such that the spindle
will put pressure on the nut as you attempt to back it out. Try to save the
nut and such as the seller will surely want that back to exchange the parts.
Ciao,
Russ Neely
Oklahoma City
In a message dated 7/23/2003 7:28:47 AM Central Daylight Time,
owner-alfa-digest@domain.elided writes:
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 00:14:13 -0700
> From: Jon Pike <jhpike@domain.elided>
> Subject: Upper A-arm ball joint problem
>
> I had the frustrating experience of tightening the ball joint nuts on my
> new adjustable upper A arms tonight, only to have one self destruct
> it's threads.. Yes, despite my budding reputation as a serious
> overtorquer... (I really DON'T resemble Arrrrrnold, really!!) I used a
> proper torque this time (listed at 54.2-61, I set for 58 lb ft) the
> threads weren't greased.. I don't know what happened.
>
> The lower arms tightened nicely at the same torque, they didn't have a
> castelated nut. The top's had castle nuts. The first top felt a little
> soft, or took a while to tighten, but finally did. The second just
> never got tight, then shavings started coming out. I now can't even
> remove it.. it loosened part way, and I guess it finished the job of
> eating the threads.
>
> So, why might this have happened? Bad nut? Un-chamfored cotter pin
> hole in the shaft? "FRAP is crap"??
>
>
<snip>
>
> Jon and Marcia
> 77 Spider
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