Re: GTV 6 Engine Rebuild and rust

[Mark Denovich <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

John De Trana wrote:

Check the other jack points for rust too... I'll bet you find it.

>  I've taking a
> bodyshop class. I'm going to invest in a welder.  I
> have sourced some body parts.  
A couple of other things I think you should buy along with your welder: 
 2 angle grinders, one with grinding disc, one with braided SS wire 
brush (awesome on rust removal).  I like having a good grinder, but 
those cheapo $15 import grinders work fine (but loud.)  It's so nice 
having a few spares around with the wheel you want already attached.  A 
pair of welding gloves.   A selection of vice grips, aviation shears. 
At least a cheap auto-darkening helmet (this helps an average welder be 
a better welder.)  Mine was $85 from NorthernTools.com and it was the 
best $85 I spent.  A flame proof shirt (ask me how I know.)

For gas, don't go cheap with straight C02 (I'm assuming you're going to 
MIG weld.)  Use 75% Argon 25% C02, much better arc, better heat control, 
less splatter, better beads.

When looking for your welder consider:
http://www.brwelder.com
http://www.cyberweld.com

The low-end Hobart 135, isn't bad for body work.   I've also used a 
Lincoln 125SP with decent results.   Although none are as nice as the 30 
year old Millermatic 35S (220v) I now use...  it's hard to beat a giant 
copper transformer.  I bought mine used for $300 with a ton of spares. 
 This is a good place to find them 
http://www.bargaintraderonline.com/adsearch.html  (a lot cheaper than 
that damn eBay.)

Although if you really want to go top-shelf, you can get a Miller 
Dynasty AC/DC Inverter.  Light weight, great TIG/Stick machine.  Then 
add a http://www.readywelder.com/ spool gun to it, and you have a 
portable rig that's hard to beat.   I'm probably going to invest in such 
a setup next winter.   Figure about $3k for the whole package.

	--Mark
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