Re: GTV No-Start Help

[ralphone@xxxxxxxxxxx]

When I fist got the engine I poured marvel Mystery oil in the plug
holes.  And last night I poured some engine oil and let it sit over
night.  Today I reran the compression tests and still got only 40 lbs. 
BTW Cam timing is perfect.  Later I poured some oil in to the spark plug
holes and my compression went up to 110 to 120 lbs except for Cylinder
1, it read only 90 lbs.  These readings are with the throttle open.  I
guess its time for a rebuild.

Thanks,
Ralph

"Dean W. Cains" wrote:
> 
> Hi Ralph:
> 
> Those rings have got to be mighty dry after several years.  Squirt a little
> oil down the plug holes, give it a few cranks and let it sit a few
> hours.  This will allow the oil to work into the ring grooves on the
> pistons and let the excess drip though to the crankcase.  Also, did you
> have the engine cranking fast enough, and were the throttles fully
> open?  The fact that they're all around the same number should be good, but
> it's much tougher to tell when the readings are all that low.  I'd still
> try the starting ether and see if you get a bit of life.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Dean
> 
> At 06:34 PM 4/17/2003, you wrote:
> >Hi Dean,
> >
> >Thanks for the tips but I rebuilt the carbs a month ago.  The crane
> >ignition worked fine on another Alfa.
> >
> >Today I did a compression test and the readings were around 40lbs for
> >all cylinders!  I'm Screwed huh?  I wonder what's causing this the head
> >or rings?
> >
> >Anyway thanks for your Help!
> >
> >Ralph
> >
> >"Dean W. Cains" wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Ralph:
> > >
> > > Something very simple I might try is squirting some starting ether into the
> > > carbs while the engine is being cranked.  My initial thought is that the
> > > carbs aren't working properly, as they are the most likely thing not to
> > > work after sitting for so long, but the weird cranking behavior is
> > > puzzling.  At least if you can get it to fire on the starting ether, you'll
> > > know you have compression and spark.  I'd also try this with a brand new
> > > set of plugs.  It's quick, and cheap, so might be worth a try.  Be careful
> > > with the ether, though, as it can be prone to flash up, and I might have an
> > > extinguisher handy.
> > >
> > > Do you maybe have a spare non-electronic distributor you might try, in
> > > place of the Crane.  Depending on which Crane unit you've got, there might
> > > be an incompatibility between it and the coil.  The XR700 needs a coil with
> > > ballast resistance (internal or external), while the XR3000 (and
> > others) don't.
> > >
> > > It sounds like you've covered the basics (timing and voltage), but old
> > > carbs are tough to be sure about, and so is the Crane, so you've got two
> > > variables that you really haven't eliminated as possible no-start causes.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Dean
> > >
> > > At 11:13 PM 4/16/2003, you wrote:
> > > Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 21:48:41 -0400
> > > From: ralphone@domain.elided
> > > Subject: GTV No-Start  Help
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I have a problem with my engine and I'm stumped.  First some background,
> > > the engine is a 1750 with dual Carbs and Crane Electronic Ignition.  The
> > > engine sat for five years before I bought it.  The engine was pulled
> > > from a spider that was totaled from a front end collision.
> > >
> > > Problem - I can not get this sucker to start! I have tried everything
> > > and I'm looking for fresh ideas.
> > >
> > > I verified there is spark and fuel. The timing is correct or close
> > > enough for a start up.  Checking the timing by looking at the valves
> > > through the sparkplug holes and lining up the timing marks on the
> > > camshafts and crank pulley.  The plugs will get wet if I keep on
> > > cranking and when I hold the gas pedal down while cranking the engine
> > > spins faster.
> > >
> > > The car cranks but when it seems to be on the compression stroke (fuel
> > > Ignites?) the engine wants to lock up?  The cranking slows then picks up
> > > again.  To me when a car starts acting like this I would think it is
> > > badly out of time but I checked this out a couple of times and all the
> > > marks all line up.  Then I thought it was a bad battery so I switched
> > > out batteries and the same behavior happens.  I Double & Tripled checked
> > > the timing and the engine still choke up on the compression stroke.
> > > Thinking I had the distributor timing out by 180 I switched spark plug
> > > wires and created a situation of having the distributor 180 degrees
> > > out and tried to start it and heard the customary backfire through the
> > > carbs. I changed starters thinking maybe the old starter was just
> > > screwed but that did not help.
> > >
> > > I would like to take a compression test but my POS Sears Compression
> > > tester is broken  Does any one know what a good compression reading for
> > > a 1750 on a dry cold engine?  Or what the minimum is before a car will
> > > start?  Can the Piston Rings gum up from sitting all those years.  Head
> > > Gasket gone bad?  I know a compression test will confirm this but I need
> > > to know what I should look for.  Plus a new Compression Tester.
> > >
> > > Now I'm worried there is internal damage causing this situation?? Any
> > > thoughts.
> > >
> > > I can turn the engine by hand with a socket on the crank nut.  Engine
> > > turns smoothly and I do not feel any resistance.
> > >
> > > Sorry for the long post just trying to provide a detailed description to
> > > the more knowledgeable.  All suggestions are welcomed.
> > >
> > > Help!
> > >
> > > Thanks in Advance,
> > > Ralph DeLauretis
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