DIY Rust Proofing (Loooong)

["Paul Bayly" <thebaylys@domain.elided>]

My experience with rustproofing is that a variety of substances will work,
however it's usually the application process which lets the side down.
Most aftermarket rustproofing firms can't afford the time to dismantle a car
to get all the vulnerable areas.   Mostly they punch a few holes in the body
and squirt the liquid in, usualy doors, sills and underbody.   This has a
few problems: 1) the rustproofing can effectively encapsulate years of built
up crud.   2) the rustproofing can stick to trim panels and wiring where you
really don't need it to stick.   3)  there will be some important areas
missed.

I do my own rustproofing now and use a large s/steel pressure canister (hand
pump) to which I have a wand attached and I use commercially available home
watering system 5mm poly pipe end sprays (cheap,disposable, differing spray
patterns avail)

I pull as much of the trim as I can, including carpets and dash, and drop
the edges of the headlining down (Spider owners ignore).  I carefully clean
all the watertrap areas (with fresh water and a soft brush if need be), and
clean out the drain holes adding a few more in strategic areas.  Remember
that the drain holes need to be at the lowest point, Alfa always had them a
half inch up ?

I allow a few days in the sun for the seams to dry completely and then
SPARINGLY apply the rustproofing.  In the past this has been Fishoil, but
now I use Lanoline based products.   I think the Fishoil is still the best
as it has excellent 'wicking' abilities and will run uphill.  Lanoline doesn
t stink as much !!!  Remember, you want a product which doesn't harden.

I usually only apply the stuff to seam areas or panel joins/welds.   It's
rare for a smooth painted panel to rust thru the centre (even on an Alfa !!)


I also do any bright trim where it attaches to the body, just pour it in and
wipe off the excess.   Note that you must be careful not to get any product
on any wind-up window glass or the seals of same.

Usually the liquid will seep out for weeks afterward but a kerosene soaked
rag will wipe off excess without damaging paint.   Of course it will remove
any wax.

Its important to do areas such as the undersidde of windscreen flanges, and
the flanges themselves if you are willing to pull a 'screen.   Remove any
inner guard (fender) trim and get into all the areas, even up the top.
Alfetta Coupe owners note that I usually leave the trim/seal off the area to
the rear of the front wheels.   This enables the area to be cleaned out
regularly and you can monitor the rust formation, which should now have been
slowed somewhat.  these trims are bad rock and dirt collectors.   If you
must refit them at least trim an inch off the bottom.

Another probem area on Alfetta coupes is the double skinned area
approximately under the washer bottle (both sides)   I now drill a hole thru
the first skin layer (top skin in engine bay) and slowly fill the gap with
fishoil.  You will eventually see it seep thru at the seam area at the top
of the inner front guard.  I then plug the hole with a glued grommet, or
bodyfill the hole if the car is in for a repaint.

Trying to combat rust is an ongoing task.   Whenever you are doing
maintenance keep your eyes open for watertrap areas and consider if that
screw or bolt could be protected by a sparing amount of rustproofing
compound.  If you are in an area you will be unlikely to see for a few years
 for example a windscreen flange area, take the extra time to treat the area
NOW.

I would also add that I live in Australia and as such don't need to combat
salted roads etc.   However I believe DIY rustproofing is well worth doing
as it is labour intensive and hence very expensive to have done commercially
 but is goood insurance and you will sleep better knowing it has been done
correctly and effectively.

Good Night and don't let the Tinworm Bite

Beatle
Katherine NT
Australia

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