Re: 164 - looking for advice

[Matthias Kuster <choreboy@domain.elided>]

Hey Will, Alfistoni

I wanna give you my tupence: Go for it. Be advised, though, that I, too,
bought a white (is the one you're looking at stick ??) 164L, 1991Manual six
months ago in Houston, Texas, and drove it here to L.A..
Now here is my story: No problems  to speak of during the trip, except no
A.C. Great ride altogether, just takes getting used to the torquey FWD, I
had only driven a Milano before. Little quirks like wind noise at speeds
above 90mph :-), the sunroof wouldn't shut all the way unless I was going
under 40 mph, draft coming from inside door handle (driver seat) when
windows open. I figured ok, I love it so much,I can live with that.
Other than that it stumbled on pedal to the metal acceleration, and the
clutch was very tough. Turns out also that my new gem burns oil, to the tune
of 1qt per 500 miles. And there was smell of burnt oil in the interior. Sort
of ok gas mileage that got worse over the months. The oil smell kept getting
worse too, to the point I had to take my 88 Volkswagen Golf to go on dates
again. Oh boy.

Theeeen: I couldn't get it smogged, because the HC were too high.
This was due to worn heads, or valve gaskets whateveryoucallit. I got it
smogged eventually.

One day I got the engine warning lamp coming on on the way to Vegas, I had
owned the car for about 2 months. Made it back to L.A. After a long
tinkering session I found the temperature sensor underneath the thermostat
had a loose connector. Fixed thhat. Then, one day it wouldn't start anymore,
turns out a little hose on my fuel pump went out.Fixed that.

 The stumbling, poor idling, oil burning and smell,  poor mileage kept
getting worse, so two months ago I went ahead and did a valve job since my
clutch started going the way of the Makarena. Whilst I was gonna do that, I
also had the input shaft bearing (tranny) replaced, which involved taking
the transmission apart($500.00 at Uwe's Omega Motorsports in Culver City.
This is a major weak spot on pre 92 164s I believe, except the S models,
they have the better one. Well my bearing was already missing 30% of
integral bearing parts when I took out the transmission, had I driven it
only couple more miles, that would have completely gone, and meant a
complete transmission rebuild($1500,00, or get a used one).
This was at 80000 miles, a Texas car, so lots of freeway miles. It had a
salvage title, though, so who knows. From the overall condition of the car
I'd say 80000 could be actual.
I recommend that that bearing should be replaced ASAP, and the proper
(ring?) bearing installed.
So...I installed the overhauled transmission, new clutch assembly, all
belts, cylinder heads, oil and waterpump, thermostat, changed all the seals
especially those that caused oil to leak out onto the exhaust pipes. etc.
I'm finally done putting it back together, It runs for 5 minutes, and the
timing belt tensioner failed and the belt slipped a bunch of teeth- two
valves in the rear (1-3cyl.) were bent and the heads needed to come off
again, and new valves put in. My screw up, I guess. ALWAYS use a new
tensioner ($70.00)
One week ago I finally got around to putting it all back together again, and
it fired right up. Took it out for a spin, dashed up and down the Pasadena
Freeway, Mulholland and around PCH- I KNEW AGAIN WHY I FELL IN LOVE WITH
THIS CAR. It was so much fun, the way this car drives is just really
special, it's something between a Z3, a Porsche 911 and ... Well I don't
know  what else. This is one FUN DARN CAR!!
It was getting poor mileage (18mpg), so I replaced the O2 sensor with a new
one. After I was done with that, I decided to tighten the intake runners,
and then, when I reconnected everything and start it up-Damnation. Eternal.
My 164 sounded like a 78 Peugeot Diesel on its way from Tripolis to Basrah.
I thought I was going to die, anticipated  a Milwaukee twelve pack,  took a
nap. Today I did a compression test, and I get very acceptable compression,
oil pressure, everything. So the knocking and pinging is coming from one of
the piston rod journals, most likely, Ciao Ragazzi. Now tomorrow I will have
to pull the drivetrain, separate the bottom end and bring it to Omega
Motorsports for rebuilding.
Didn't scare ya, did I?? I think my case is pretty much a worst case
scenario. I payed $4500.00 for it with S-wheels, new Yokohamas and a almost
pristine interior. Outside paint had some flaws here and there. IKNOW for
sure that the PO was somewhat of a jackass and a bad one at that. A lot of
the bolts had been stripped all over the engine, easy to do on an aluminum
block if you're not careful. And I know that he did something to that
journal that just went, because he had journals in the parts box he gave me
with the car. My expenses so far for parts and the transmission fix are
$2500.00, and lots of time and frustration. Add to that the cost to rebuild
the short block, about $1500.00. The car is mostly stock, except for the
exhaust, and I decided to keep it that way. If you want more power,  go for
an S. 
I think though, even with all this, the car is still worth the effort. Even
investment wise, as I am pretty sure I will keep it for a couple of years
now, and it is an outrageously, gourgeously insane automobile. Italian
engineering requires a certain mindset and commitment, Mussolini had one,
after all. If you want a trouble free peace of mind car, buy a Maxima, any
year. Would I have had all this work done at the shop, it would have easily
cost me $3000.00 extra, but spared me some of the frustration and dirty
fingernails. Offer the Armenian $3000.00, see what he says. There's 164s in
the Recycler for Sale for months that are priced at $4400.00-5000.00, no
buyers, looks like. You should definitely anticipate a valve job and a
clutch, and engine rear seals, cigarette seals. And the input shaft off
course. About $2500.00 at the shop, guesstimation.
Oh, and the stepper motors, they cost about $950.00 to have done at Omega, a
great shop BTW. Mine need replacement, too, but aren't a priority. They
click when the HVAC is turned off, very subtle. The AC is something else
that might get in the bucks. Parts are available but expensive: fuel pump
$200.00, ignition wires $320.00, cap and rotor $90.00. If you shop around
and cross reference parts, like Bosch O2sensors and injectors, you save some
money. At the shop they'll charge you dealer prices for everything, off
course. If you need a hoist or any special tools, give me a holler.
I have no regrets about having bought the car. Hope this wasn't too lenghty
and doesn't scare you away. Just make sure you keep a bottle of basket
bottom Chianti in the glove compartment, always handy.



Piece

And happiness for everyone
-- 
Matthias Kuster L.A., CA
1991 164L "Alfonso"

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