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Re: alfa-digest V8 #6
At 09:10 AM 8/31/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Peter Kemos <peterk@domain.elided> had asked:
>
> > I'd like to undertake my first lower balljoint replacement on my 73 GTV,
> > Seem to recall a posting from some time ago where someone outline a
> > proceedure to separate the old balljoint using the weight of the car and
> > creative jacking points....
> > The idea here is to do this without balljoint separators or pickleforks,
> > none of which i have.
> > So, can a semi-hack shadetree mechanic do this without the aid of
> > specialized tools?
>
>I am not saying that it can't be done. But, I doubt that the path of least
>resistance to removing the lower ball joint from the spidle on a 105/115
>series Alfa would be to a) remove the nut, b) position a jack under the
>stud on the balljoint, c) jack up the car, and d) hope that the 1,000#
>+ - of force this would generate would be enough to pop the taper
>loose. Yea, you could apply heat and/or penetrating oil. But, I doubt
>that it would pop, unless the previous mechanic were considerate
>enough to use anti-seize (as of course you will be when you re-
>assemble it).
>
>Now, I did see something amazing yesterday. I was at a reputable
>Alfa shop (Foreign Auto Menders in Poway, Calif), buying some
>spindle assemblies from Danny Wells. The tie rod and lower A arm
>ball joints were still installed and I didn't need them. Danny simply
>removed the nuts, took a large ball peen hammer, and really
>whacked the sides of the steering arm and spindle. The tapers
>just came loose as if by magic. I had heard of this procedure,
>but assumed that you tapped on the female side of the tapered
>fit after applying pullers, heat, prayer, ... Nope - Danny just whacked
>it a couple of times, and out it fell. Comments?
A mechanic friend of the family told me about the whack the side of the
arm method about 15 years ago. That's what I use all the time and unless
you miss, is harmless. I leave the nut on the ball joint just in case
I miss.
---------------
Alex __O
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