Re: Spider transmission mount bushing.

[Caxambu@domain.elided]

Rick in Eugene asks about removing/replacing the rear trans mount bushing in=20
an 86 Spider. I did this R/R in my Spider last March. Not necessary to remov=
e=20
the tranny from the car. With a bit of imaginative shopping you can fashion=20
an inexpensive "press" from a length of allthread rod, some washers, nuts,=20
and a short section of pipe, or in this case, a PVC plumbing adapter. The=20
entire process was not too painful and made a huge difference in the feel of=20
the car; shifting, take off, braking, bumps, backing uphill, etc. are all no=
w=20
much smoother and solid. You probably already know this but: ***Please take=20
sufficient time and care to secure the car solidly on strong jackstands=20
Before crawling under the car.***

What follows is a more detailed description. A big thanks to Bob Brady who=20
initially shared his description of the hardware and process.

=CF found a PVC adapter at a local "More of Everything" hardware store.One s=
ide=20
was threaded internally, the other was not. The numbers on the end of it say=20
"COLONIAL   U.S.A. D-2466  SCH 40  PVC-1  CAV. A   2-1/2"  NSF-PW".  It was=20
approx. 5" long X 3-5/16" od x 2-7/8"id (smooth end) x 2-5/8"id (threaded=20
end). I believe it was intended for mating iron (galvanized?) pipe to a PVC=20
section. I chose it with replacement tranny mount bushing in hand-- the i.d.=20
of this adapter was just slightly larger than the o.d. of the bushing. I kne=
w=20
the bushing could easily pass thru this "receiver"and the receiver had enoug=
h=20
meat on the non-threaded end to butt up solid against the tranny housing, an=
d=20
enough meat on the threaded end to hold the largest washer solid. Didn't nee=
d=20
to hone out the inside like Bob Brady did, but I did cut off a 1-1/2" off of=20
the threaded end (easy to cut PVC w/ a hacksaw!) because it didn't actually=20
need to be that long (needs to be only slightly wider than the bushing) and =
I=20
needed the extra manuverability because the master cylinder on my car is=20
right down there by the side of the tranny mount which makes it a little=20
tight. In fact, unlike Bob, I removed the bushing towards the passenger side=20
for this reason.

The other parts were a 1 ft. section of 1/2"allthread rod, 3 nuts (two for=20
double-nutting one side, the other for squeeze action), various washers, the=20
most important ones being large enough to cover the threaded end of the PVC=20
receiver (3"od x 1-3/8"id x 3/16" thick), and the other one (2-1/2"od x=20
1-1/16" id x 3/16" thick)  just slightly smaller than the tranny housing=20
(again I used the replacement bushing to find a suitable size.) Buy two of=20
each and stack them together to give extra strength-- I just noticed mine=20
bent a little. Since these washers had large center holes, I bought smaller=20
ones to stack to give the nuts a good seating. The large center holes=20
actually helped because you'll notice the inner hole of the bushing is=20
offset, and this gave me adequate play.

Raised the rear of the car and secured it until I was satisfied with=20
jackstands.

I dropped the tranny crossmember by removing the four 13mm bolts (buy=20
replacements! Bob warned me about this but I ignored it until closing it all=20
back up-- snapped two-- luckily got the remains out easy but it meant anothe=
r=20
unnecesssary triip to the HW store.) and the two 13mm nuts for the front=20
driveshaft section bearing. This let the rear of the tranny down far enought=20
to work.

Removed the bushing's thru bolt, set aside the tranny x-member, and arranged=20
the receiver and assorted washers and allthread rod and started wrenching.=20
The washers dished, the nut got difficult to turn; I thought something was=20
going to break, but kept at it. Sure enough, the bushing moved slightly, not=20
with a snap or a bang, but a subtle release. From there it was easier but=20
tedious wrenching until it was out.

I kept the replacement bushing in the freezer overnight but it still didn't=20
"just slip in." BTW the large open gap in the bushing goes toward the top--=20
the inner metal tube where the thru bolt goes sits offset more toward the=20
bottom. When mounted, the tranny's weight will push down on the outer=20
section, making the inner steel tube end up almost in the center of the=20
circle.

Tried reversing the operation to press the repl. bushing in but managed to=20
lodge it in there crooked. The new one's rubber was in much better shape and=20
I couldn't get the allthread rod centered enough to get a square push. That'=
s=20
when I had to use the propane torch on the aluminum tranny housing, then it=20
was easy to hammer it in straight with a block of wood.

Buttoned it back up the reverse of the disassembly steps.

Took about three hours, not counting the shopping, or the busted crossmember=20
mounting  bolts extraction.

You would not believe the difference! The car is a thousand times more=20
comfortable!

- --Caxambu
1969 Spider Veloce
Seattle WA

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