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re: dash board refinishing



Andy,
	Do not stir up varnish in the can since you will be introducing air
bubbles into the liquid.  Since varnish is pretty thick stuff, those
bubbles tend to stay around for a very long time.  Also brushing can
introduce bubbles.  Use a good quality bristle brush, load up the brush
slowly from the can and don't scrape it on the sides of the can (more
bubble-forming); should gently slap it against the side of the can but
most likely you have a quart can which makes it impossible to do.  

	Brush the varnish in one direction; the fewer the brush strokes the
better.  Stroke new varnish into the existing varnish with a bit of
overlap.  Do not go over varnish that is already applied.  Most
varnishes are self leveling.  All those brush strokes you see when wet
will level out.  And if you want a really good finish, use pumice and/or
rottenstone to polish it to a very nice shine.

	I like finishes that go on with a rag, such as Danish oil, tung oil,
etc; quick and easy with no brush cleanup required.  There is a product
for finishing gun stocks that is applied by rag.  I used it when I put
together a black powder Navy Colt (.36 cal) and black powder Hawken
rifle (.50 cal) kits many years back.  I bought it with a kit of metal
browning/blueing at a gun and ammo store.  Can't remember the name,
though.  Makes for a very durable finish that should withstand the temp.
extremes found in cars.  I'll be using it when I get around to putting
on new veneer on my GTVs dash and center console.

	Bruce

> Problem is in the varnishing - I seem to have a technique problem.  Selected 
> semi gloss helmsman varnish.  Have sanded & steel wooled to a smooooth 
> surface. put the varnish on - spray or brush - I get many teeny tiney bubbles 
> in the dried coat.  Have sanded & reapplied about 5 coats now, so I have a 
> decent base of varnish.  If I can just get one smmoth, clear coat on these 
> pieces, I am done, and can reassemble & install this dash !!    Any 
> suggestions on how to avoid these thangs?

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