Pre purchase milano

["Wendy Wood & Carson Damm" <dammwood@domain.elided>]

Can I tell you a story. I just bought my first v-6, an 87 plat in December.
Here are a few things to check for. Also look at the gtv-6 web site,
www.gtv-6.org I think.

The ABS, turn the key to run, not start and all the lights should come on.
there is an abs light up with the turnsignal indicator this must come on
and then go out in 2-5 seconds. If it doesn't come on at all take the ash
tray right out and remove the two screws that are behind it and gently work
the caution panel out. It has two clips at the top. Use a good light bulb
from one of the other positions, they rock out from the top or the bottom,
you will need a small blade screwdriver. So does the abs light go out in
2-5 sec in the run position. If it doesn't walk away now. When I bought
mine the light at the back was missing and since my wife saw no light we
kept going. Mine was just a wheel speed sensor but a master cylinder is
1800 bucks......
With the car still in run and the abs light out press the brake pedal
several times. You should get at least 6 pumps before the electric pump
kicks in. If it doesn't the car needs a brake pressure accumulator (180
bucks)

The engine:
Either there is recent history of a timing belt, tensioner and water pump
or it needs them. If there are no bills you need to get it done. All these
parts are a scheduled maint item every 30,000 miles.
Hot idle oil pressure should be good.
Pull the vapour seperator off and look at what is inside. It is right
behind the distributor on the valve cover.
Check the coolant for oil, the best is to pull out the float which is
beside the cap on the expansion tank. This is a pressurized bottle, be
careful. once the float is out look in there as it is hard to clean out if
they are hidding stuff by changing the coolant a couple of days ago.
Changing the head gaskets on an abs milano is a BIG job.
There should be little or no oil leaks
Pull out all the spark plug cables from the head and look for oil
It should start instantly, the colder the better
Look at the power steering hoses, hopfully they are dry, they usually get
cooked by the left hand exhaust manifold.
After your drive open the power steering reservoir, the fluid should be
clear, no bubbles
Once it is fully warm on your drive, punch it, all the way to yellow line
in two to three gears, stop grinning and listen for misses.


Under the front:
The boots on the steering rack should be dry and in one piece.
Check wheel bearings, put your hands at the top and bottom, wiggle. There
is either none or some, some is bad. Milanos are known for less than the
best bearings.
Castor arm bushings, at the front of the front fender, like big rubber
washers. Easy to change and cheap. If they look like shit, chances are the
rest of the bushings are not the best.
Shocks, push down a fender without bouncing and let go, it should go up and
settle.
The power steering takes atf Dextron. If there is red fluid down there that
is what it is.

Under the Back:
Wheel bearings, wiggle same as above, some or none, this is an expensive
fix and is hard for the do-it-yourselfer
Brake calipers, tend to leak at the hand brake mechanism. Calipers can be
expensive.
Driveshaft dougnuts, there are three and are hard to get a good look at. If
one is crack all the way or most of the way through it is toast, If you
change one you will change three.
Leaking clutch slave
Cracked CV boots
Exhaust
Rust, If there is some this is where it will start usually, rear wheel
wells and suspension mounts

A couple of sites
http://www.gtv6.org/
http://reality.sgi.com/sikand_mti/milano.html

Having said all that, I truly enjoy my car

Carson Damm
Ft. McMurray, Alberta
Canada

1970 1750 GT Veloce FS @
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/5949/sale.html
1977 Spider
1987 milano Platinum

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End of alfa-digest V7 #600
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