Re: GTV Front End Height

[Les Singh <Les.Singh@xxxxxxxxx>]

>Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 23:58:43 PDT
>Not enough on this topic yet for me as my GTV is now up on jackstands in 
>the garage, and prepped for total spring removal and replacement.  This 
>car was manufactured in July 1974, and bought new in California in 1976.  
>The front end has always been raised, which gives it a 'Chris Craft' 
>posture that is its only aesthetic blemish.  I've understood that 
>federal headlight height requirements were responsible for the 
>distortion, and that only a change in springs could level this model.  
>Given a choice, I'd rather pull out spacers so as to keep the car as 
>stock and Italian as possible.  Anyone out there with some definitive 
>experience rehabilitating a GTV to how God intended it to be?  Also very 
>curious as to how such changes affect the suspension settings and wheel 
>alignment.  
>
>
>Steve in the Silicon Valley
>74 GTV (red, with no cupholders)
>78 Sedan (cupholder removed)
>

Steve

Why bother setting it up the way it doesn't look right? All GTVs benefit
from some suspension lowering both aesthetically and in handling. I would
be inclined to decide on the ride-height that is best for my purposes then
set up the suspension appropriately with the one imperative being to get
rid of that "dragging the tail" look. A jacked up front end and dragging
tail looks absolutely yuk in my opinion. Rear suspension work is easy - 1
hour to remove both springs refit, measure, remove+readjust, refit,
remeasure - been there done that. Fronts are a weekend job - with extreme
care needed. People use threaded rods - time consuming and tedious; I have
my own simpler method but will not elaborate because about 50 people will
jump on me telling me it can't be done that way....

The considerations re wheel alignment etc don't really apply - after any
suspension changes the front end settings will have to be readjusted
preferably on a 4-wheel alignment machine. Toe-in is 1.5 mm (std), castor
1.5 deg =/- 0.5 deg but more castor is preferable. Camber is normally not
adjustable unless adjustable top arms are fitted. Suspension heights are
adjustable with different thickness rubber spacers, and there is an
aluminum plate that's also fitted under the front springs. Large changes in
ride height need different springs. All of the 105 series springs are
interchangeable between models from the '60s to whenever so its possible to
retain some "ride compliance" while lowering the car, something that very
stiff aftermarket springs don't always allow.

Hope this helps

Les - "sideways in the rain" in Wellington New Zealand
      - watered the garden today - never fails to induce rain!  

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