Re: 115 Front suspension question

[Chris.Prael@xxxxxxxxxxx (Chris Prael)]

> Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 01:01:11 EDT
> From: Jefft711@domain.elided
> Subject: 115 Front suspension question
> 
> I have a 74 GTV.  Its my first Alfa.  The car is a stock 115 model (USA
> spec).  I look at a lot of pictures of GTVs and they all seem to sit 
> flat or level in comparison to mine.  Mine seems to have an extra lift 
> on the front end and it sort of makes me feel like it should have eyes 
> and a mouth painted on each side like an old P-51 Mustang.  The previous 
> owner told me that he thought spacers were put under the front springs 
> so the headlight height would meet the USA specs at the time.  It was 
> like that when he bought it about 10 years ago.

Someone claimed on the list a few months ago that the reason for the
spacers was bumper hieght.  However, neither state nor federal
authorities specified bumper heights in the US before 1975.  So, your
friend probably has the right story.

Usually the cars sit fairly level, but run quite nose high at freeway
speeds.  What you describe, may mean that the rear springs have sagged
relative to the fronts
> 
> The shop manual diagrams two points (A being the distance from ground
> to lower wishbone shaft and B being the distance from ground to bottom
> of swivel pin) at which to measure on the front suspension stating that
> the proper distance should be 1.34" +/- .20".  Mine measures 2".
> 
> 
> My first question is:  Is this story about the spacers true?  Have
> other owners removed the spacers so the car would sit flat or level?

I removed the spacers many years ago when I also upgraded the front
sway bar to a Shankle 26mm and added a chin spoiler.  

The geometry change and the sway bar makes a huge improvement in turn-in 
and a large improvement in front end grip.  The car became amazingly
more responsive to steering wheel inputs.

Dropping the nose and adding the spoiler also seems to have made a
significant improvement in Cd.  The fuel consumption improved by an
average of 2 mpg with no change in the power train, driving style, or 
routes (about 1/2 freeway).
> 
> Second, if there are spacers and they can be removed, how can you
> remove them? I saw a special tool being required in the repair manual.  
> Is there a comparable tool out there or otherwise safe method for 
> compressing the front springs?

There are aluminum spacers between the rubber vibration isolators at
the bottom of the springs and the spring seats that bolt to the lower
"A" control arm.  To remove them, you remove first the shocks, then 
the springs.  The car must be up on jack stands. Remove the shocks.  

I have 4 2-foot lengths of threaded rod with 3 nuts on each.  One at a 
time remove a bolt holding the spring seat to the "A" arm and replace 
it with a length of threaded rod: 2 nuts above the "A" arm and tightened 
into each other to lock them and the third nut under the spring seat.

When all 4 bolts have been replaced, undo each nut under the spring
seat (lowering it) a little at a time until all the spring tension is
released.  Drop the seat a bit more and the spring, rubber isolator,
and spacer can all be removed.  I would replace the rubber isolator
while you have things apart and it might be a good idea to install
fresh springs as they tend to sag with time.

To reassemble, simply reverse the process.

Note what I said, above, about your rear springs being more likely to
have sagged.  I would replace them too.  To do that, jack the rear up
and put the jackstands under the chassis (not the axel).  Raise the
axel a bit with the jack.  Remove the rear shocks.  remove the clamps
(4 bolts each) that connect the ends of the droop limiter straps. Now,
lower the axel with the jack until the springs unload and can be
removed.  

To reassemble, reverse the process.  But note that you may have to
lower the axel a bit more to get the new springs in as they should be 
longer.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jeff Thomas

Chris Prael

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