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Damon Kane wrote:
>At this point in my quest, I'm stumped. I tried to find a universal
>cable operated valve at the local NAPA store that I could use in place of
>my internally leaky brass valve. No luck, all too big. Out of
>despiration and to help out a friend who had the identical problem I bought
>a simple in-line heater hose valve from the NAPA store. They have 2 or 3
>sizes and configurations but only one will minimally offset the heater hose
>when installed. For my friend, I installed the valve in the heaer hose
>that runs horizontally from the front of the footwell backwards towards the
I am sort of confused as to your problem with X 1/9 heater valves but I
assume the problem is they suck.
To make a long story short, the heater valve in my Spider is stuck in the
open position. Luckily I can cut the airflow off. But I can't open the flap
in the summertime because I get hot air.
I don't want to get into why it started leaking (internally), but it started
leaking about 2 weeks after I installed it and it is made of brass so it's
really not any better than the plastic ones.
I was at an import autoparts store and found a heater valve which would work
perfectly but I have never installed it.
It's a heater valve for a VW/Audi. It fits the 5/8" heater hose and is about
2 inches long. I still got it but have never used it.
I thought about using it to bypass the air auxilary valve so I could
manually crank up the idle.
I'm sure you could easily mount one of these in the engine compartment.
Trouble is finding a cable that long.
The valve is plastic by the way.
James Seabolt -----> mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org
1980 FIAT 2000 Spider (injected)
1981 FIAT X 1/9 (Injected)
1994 JEEP Wrangler (2.5l )
1976 Chevrolet Pickup (454 Big Block)
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