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Reply: [ihc] Factory Toe-In Spec, Anyone?



On Tue, 9 Nov 2004, Tom Harais wrote:

So Steve:

Tell us your toe setting technique?  Are you using stick pins into the tire
tread and measuring the distance change when rolled back?  Did you create a
measuring device of some sort?

Has anyone ever tried those relatively cheap alignment platters from JC
Whitney that you can use to set toe and camber but not caster?

I've always found that I couldn't get a tape between the rear edge of the
wheels because of interference from the frame, exhaust, etc.  And, by the
time I made up a measuring device like the ones I've seen in a couple of
suspension books I have, I may as well go pay an alignment shop the $50 and
have it set by laser.
Tom:

This is how I do it on my (well, not on the latest one yet) Scout II(s).

I take a heavy jackstand and secure (wire, radiator clamps) a sharp pointed tool (awl, ice pick, etc) to it so that the point extends far enough from the jackstand base to touch the tire tread.

See ASCII art below:

)
tire)---
) |
/-\

You can actually buy this tool from an alignment shop tool supplier.

Jack up each front tire and scribe a circumferential (I may have made just made up a new word) line around each tire, by spinning the tire and holding the sharp point against the tread.

The scribed line must not waver horizontally.

If you make a mistake scribing a line, just move the next attempt an inch to the left or to the right and try again.

If you want to get fancy, take some chalk and highlight the scribed lines.

Lower the vehicle back on the ground.

Row it back approx 10 feet, then roll it forward approx 10 feet.

Measure the difference between the scribed line at the midline of the front of the tire, and the midline of the scribed line at the rear of the tire.

The difference is your toe in or toe out.

If you have to make adjustments, always roll the vehicle back and then forward approx 10 feet before re-measuring.

HTH

--
Ted Borck tborck@domain.elided



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