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RE: [ihc] RE:Cold Heat Soldering Iron



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-ihc@domain.elided [mailto:owner-ihc@domain.elided]On Behalf Of
> Terry.Traver@domain.elided
> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 10:09 AM
> To: ihc@domain.elided
> Subject: [ihc] RE:Cold Heat Soldering Iron
>
> I found this review which seemed to be positive about the tool
> and shed some
> light on how it works.
>
> http://www.moddershq.net/reviews.asp?reviewid=32&X=1
>
> Terry

Thanks, Terry. I now know more than I did. For instance, it apparently has a
dual, or split tip, and seems to work like a resistance solderer. That's
fine for some things, and not so for others. Apparently, the company says:

"We do not recommend it for soldering of large metallic components that
require a lot of heat transfer or for soldering sensitive electronic
components that may be damaged by fast-rising temperatures or high
electrical current. (Momentary high-amperage current will be created during
active soldering.)"

Maybe I'll risk the $20 (plus s&h), and give it my own test drive...

I have an indoor/outdoor analog thermometer, and the wire which runs from
one of the merc tubes to the outdoor probe got cut. The wire at the tube
side is epoxied, so the only fix I could think of was to solder the wire
back together. With a regular soldering gun, there's the risk of heating the
wire too much, and blowing the tube. I hate mercury poisoning, so that's
out. I started thinking about this "cold solder" gun. If it is a resistance
type, will the heat-up and cool-down on either side of the gap be quick
enough to avoid breaking the glass? Isolating the heat "upstream" of the
probe will be difficult, as the wire is shielded. I don't want to by a new
digital unit, and can't find an analog model. Plus, this one is "cool"...

Any ideas?

This would all be sort of off-topic, except that the whole point of knowing
how cold it is outside, is to know how much empathy I need to allocate to my
Travelall. Doesn't like the sub zero stuff...

Thanks,

John A.


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