[ihc] Re: ihc-digest V7 #515

["John Donnelly" <dslscout@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Colin MM Rush [mailto:salmineo@domain.elided]
> > Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 11:15 AM
> > To: ihc@domain.elided; jma@domain.elided
> > Subject: Re: [ihc] Oregon Backcountry Discovery Trail: We're Baaack!
> >
> snip<
> On the front, he might have done the conversion where you drill out the
> rivets on the aft hangers, move them back and down to the mounting holes
> drilled for the two-wheel drive models, and used spring packs from a
> two-wheel p/u or T'all that are slightly longer than those from a 4x4. I
> wondered about the spacer blocks that you mentioned - my understanding is
> that that is not safe in front. Maybe he just did the spring conversion in
> front, and the spring hanger swap and blocks in back? Is John on this
list?
> I'd really like to hear from him, and/or see pictures. This particular job
> is on my "to do" list.

The front of the truck has slightly extended shackles on the back of the
spring, this improved the caster a bit, and lifted the truck slightly.  As
far as spacer blocks on the front, there are none.  All I did was convert
the entire suspension from 1/2" hardware to 5/8" hardware, and heavy duty
spring plates.  Now all the strange IHC suspension hardware that hung down
below the axle is gone, which improved clearance, and also made field repair
easier due to more common to other make hardware.  Benz Spring was
instrumental in this www.benzspring.com  .

I did do the shackle flip mentioned to the rear.  I would recommend this to
anyone who wants to wheel a full-size and keep thier ride intact, not to
mention increase lift for larger tires. The rear of a Travelall isn't a
happy place.  There isn't room for much wider tires than 10.5" as the
fenderwell is very small.  I may address this in the future on mine with a
set of small wheel tubs but the body has some rather heavy support in there
as well, and I am loathe to cut on  and ruin the body on the truck.  I am
still studying it in the hopes of finding a cure.
>
>   John kept the closed knuckle setup.  He felt the
> > larger turning radius was offset by the increased strength of the closed
> > knuckle design.

It also kept the water out.  I just got done draining all the fluids in the
truck after our trip, and there was absolutely no water in the front axle,
not in the wheel bearings, nothing.  The transfer case had some water in it,
but not much, I have yet to figure out that one.
>
> I'm still undecided on that one, although I'm leaning toward keeping the
> closed knuckles. One, because of strength, and two, because I already have
> them. Tighter turns would be nice, though...

We negotiated some pretty tight stuff on the OBDR.  I didn't see a need for
anything other than the closed knuckle, and frankly, I think the closed
knuckle will keep you from breaking parts that otherwise you would easily
destroy with the increased turning radius of an open knuckle axle.  The
military stuck with closed knuckle designs long after the rest of the world
abandoned them.....  you can still see closed knuckle axles on many heavy
duty and extreme condition all wheel drive machines today, they are
evidentally stronger, and also less prone to contamination from the
elements.
>
> snip <
> That would be great. Or if he's not here already, have him sign up! Keep
us
> posted on your project, also. Is it a pickup, or Travelall? Thanks, ~John
A.

I have been here for a long time, I just don't say much.

Keep on Binderin',

John