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Re: [ihc] A/C and wiring



Actually, a far better solution is to use the York/Tecumseh compressor for
it's true purpose, that of a boat anchor, and replacing it with a
Sanden/Sankyo unit that will run smoother, take less power, and last at
least 4 times longer without a leak.

I have a write-up for putting it on a Scout on the BB and virtually all the
steps should be the same since they go on the same engine as the Travelall
and they are, for all intents and purposes, the same design system.

You need to replace the receiver/drier and it has desiccant in it, not
silicone.  It needs to be replaced due to age and contaminants over the
years.  Since the system is an expansion valve type system, it will work
fine with 134 or R12 without any other changes.  You don't need to replace
your hoses unless you suspect they're damaged or leaking in some way,
they'll work fine with R134.

Use one of the new oils that are multi-purpose and you'll be fine.

If you stick with the York/Tecumseh style compressor and go to R134 and it's
compatible oil, don't expect the compressor to last more than a year or two
as the units aren't really designed to work properly with that oil and
won't, at least for long.

John Stricker

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Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 13:25:25 -0500
From: "Ryan Moore" <baradium@domain.elided>
Subject: Re: [ihc] A/C and wiring

As far as oil, floating around on the BB (I know, it's down right now) there
is a FAQ about the York compressors.  One of them being how much oil it
takes and how to check it.

As far as that goes.  If you are switching to R-134a, it'd be a good idea to
get the compressor rebuilt with new seals.  Apparently the seals differ from
R-12 and R-134a... anyway, you don't *have* to get new seals on the
compressor, but it'll reduce the possibility of leaks.  Get new hoses made
and you'll need a new vapor canister (it has silicone in the bottom to
remove moisture and once it's used up you need a new canister for the fresh
silicone).  If you can get a bitter condenser, it'd help the R-134a keep you
cool, but you don't *have* to do that.

Oh, and the oil you use differs between R-12 and R-134a, so make sure you
use the right kind (R-134a oil is probably a lot easier to find anyway).

Run down:  any seals need to be new and 134a compliant as well as the oil
and hoses.

That's it for now, off to work in a few, I'll try to get a peek to see if I
have anything that might help later...

- -Ryan
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