Re: [ihc] Re: 266 w/ knock

[bearbvd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Greg Hermann)]

At 2:33 AM 5/22/04, Eighteen Rabbit wrote:
>> it's common and your engine will probably continue to run
>> for years as long as you don't run it low on oil.
>
>Well, I bought it with the noise and drove it another year and a half!  The
>real killer was when I watched the oil pressure drop in an instant while
>cruising down the highway.  I have been warned to take the stock gauge with
>a grain of salt, but it always read dead-on the =-way mark until then.  I
>knew whatever happened couldn't be good!
>
>I'll be pulling the engine and will report back with the damage and final
>diagnosis!
>
>I do have a couple questions to start with
>
>:: Can the cam bearings be installed without removing the crank, rods, and
>stuff?

Cam bearings can be done with the engine IN the truck. you need to pull
radiator and grill, intake, valley cover, valve covers, rocker assemblies,
pushrods, lifters, front pulley, a bunch of accessories, and the front
cover---and then, of course, the cam. The rearmost cam bearing might be
problematic if you do it this way, but it's almost always the front one (or
perhaps two) that go bad.

If you pull the oil pan, you can replace all the rod and main bearings with
the engine in as well, although it's slightly tricky to do the mains.

Greg

>
>::  The 345 has the flywheel still attached -- will that mate with the
>clutch/T-90 in the 800? (It came from a pickup with an O.D. x-mission)

Watch out for the pilot bearing, it's bigger if the engine was used with a
five speed. You would need the adapter piece that goes around the outside
of the pilot bearing and the pilot bearing itself from the engine that used
the T-90.

Greg
>
>::  Any tips, tricks, or things I should watch out for as I remove the 266
>and install the 345?
>
>
>Thanks,
>     Kyle Thoreson