RE: [ihc] Re: Steering Knuckles RE: bearing switch

["John M. Adams" <jma@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-ihc@domain.elided [mailto:owner-ihc@domain.elided]On Behalf Of Jim
> or Ginger Aos
> Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 10:06 AM
> To: Mac @ TRIAD; ihc@domain.elided; John M. Adams
> Subject: [ihc] Re: Steering Knuckles RE: bearing switch
>
> O my previous 1970 1200D pickup that I used for commuting to visit my kids
> 200 miles one way, and a part time summer job of spraying noxious weeds ,
> with a sprayer and a 20' wide boom, I wore out the upper bushings twice.
> Much of the spraying tool place on range land.  Much of it only accesable
> with four wheel drive.  This axle was a dana 44.  I never checked as to
> whether it was a HD or not.  While looking and wondering abot a way to fix
> it, I tried the lower bearing in place of the upper bushing.  But the
> kingpin spindle was to large, so Iturned it down to size on a lathe.  The
> drivers side was more of a challenge because of the steering arm.  So I
> lined it up close and turned it slow , using a file to reduce the
> pin size.
> I then adjusted the bearing with a slight preload by removing or adding
> shims.
>
> About 5 years later while plowing snow, 245/70 x 19.5 14ply tires truck
> chains on all 4,  I broke the steering arm bolts and the left
> king pin where
> it was pressed and welded to the steering arm.  At that time, I
> replaced the
> pin with an alloy steel 4140 and welded it to the steering arm.  This
> happened during Christmas break, and the  temp. was 9 degrees F.  All my
> searching for the 3/8" studs proved futile, so I drilled and tapped for
> 7/16", and drilled out the cone holes in the arm to fit.   I also welded a
> nut to the sheared bolts in the hub, and when they cooled I
> turned them out
> with my fingers.
> (When a nut is welded to a stud ,or bolt that is to flush to get
> a grip on ,
> the heating of the stud causes expansion. The surounding metal
> restricts the
> expansion.  This either compresses the stud or expands the housing.  Upon
> cooling the hotter stud will shrink more than the cooler housing, and will
> have less restriction.)  Because my IH experience is with
> pickups, I am not
> sure about other steering problems with TA's and Scouts.  Before I knew
> about this list I replaced the front spring soft
> rubber(/neoprene?) bushings
> with acetyle (sp) plastic, and put a blazer drag link in place of the weak
> original that was not designed for what I was doing.
>
> This may be more than you asked for, if so delete works.  Cheers Jim A.(
> also getting older, 64 in Jan.)

Not more than I asked for, maybe, but certainly more than my (lack of)
abilities and equipment will allow. You're talking about turning spindles
and welding studs and Mac talked about filing splines... and though I own a
pretty good collection of files, I don't have any welding equipment, nor a
lathe. What I do have, though, is steering parts. Back before I parked my
truck for a decade, I felt the front end was going a little "squirrelly",
and I knew the local IH dealer was going out of business... so I bought all
of the likely-to-be-needed pieces for a front end rebuild. I've moved it all
3 times, and ended up using the R&P set and bearings in the back end (rear
end went out just before I parked it - ran around in front wheel drive for a
few months...), but I still have the u-joints, seals, king pin bearings and
bushings, tie-rod ends, etc... So if I don't swap the front end out for open
knuckles, I'm still in pretty good shape for a fairly complete renewal. I
just have to get to it before I end up with damage that requires the type of
modifications you and Mac are talking about. For all of the great
information and advice you guys can share with me, I don't think you can
tell me how to weld, for instance. Time to take a class or two at the local
JC, huh?          Thanks, -John A.


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