RE: [ihc] Slight lift to older Travelall

["John M. Adams" <jma@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Mandera [mailto:tsm1@domain.elided]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 10:08 PM
> To: John M. Adams
> Cc: ihc@domain.elided
> Subject: Re: [ihc] Slight lift to older Travelall
>
> Even more than that, lenthening the rear spring shackles will DROP your
> rear end, while lengthening the front will raise it.

I had to think about this for a minute, but now I see that you're right. And
even if that weren't true, I've discovered I can't use a longer shackle in
the rear anyway - there's not more than a half inch clearance between the
top of the shackle and the bottom of the rear deck.

> The factory put a lift block between your rear springs and the rear axle.
> You can swap this out with a taller block - do not *stack* the blocks, but
> you can replace it with a taller one.

So I like this idea better. But... where would I find one? Would the lift
block from a 3/4 ton model be taller? Or is it just more leaves that give it
its extra clearance?

> Other than custom springs, I'd do the following:
>
> Look at the rear of your front springs, at the shackle.  Notice the rivet
> pattern?  Look about 2" behind (to the rear) the shackle, and you should
> see that same pattern again.
>
> If you grind the rivets off, and punch them out, you can slide the
> shackle mounts rearward about 2", and then bolt it back into place.
>
> Why do that?  You can then order a front lift kit for a 73-87 Chevy pickup
> and bolt it in.  Subtract about 2" from the advertised Chevy lift.  My
> math says a 4" Chevy lift is good for about 2" on a 1/2T Travelall.

This is an intriguing idea. I've noticed that pattern aft (and a little
below) of the one in-use. I always assumed it was for use with a longer
spring pack, maybe an earlier design. But rather than that mod and a Chevy
lift kit, why not go with the 3/4 ton swap in front (taller spring pack),
like you suggest below for the rear? Is there some reason you'd avoid that?
Or do the 3/4 ton springs use that same pivot point that the Chevy kit would
require? 6 of one, half-12 of the other?

> If you really plan to load down the rear end, I'd look for a set of 3/4T
> springs from a Travelall or pickup, along with overload springs and the
> overload mounting brackets.  I would keep the basic spring/shackle setup,
> and use lift blocks to achieve your desired ride height.

Likely what I'll do. I miss the overloads like I had on my '64 truck.

> If you're not going to load it down, then you can keep your stock springs,
> cut the shackle hangers from the frame, turn 'em upside down, and swap
> side to side and net several inches of lift.  You'll probably need a
> degree shim to re-adjust your pinion angle.

Wouldn't this (raising the frame at the rear of the assembly, as opposed to
at the center) tend to improve the pinion angle? I'm likely not going to
attempt the cut-and-invert idea, but am still trying to visualize the
geometry...

> I'd keep the "tension shackle" (spring above shackle eye) for load
> capacity, or flip it over to compression style (like the front) or
> articulation and a soft ride.

This is why the front pack is flat, almost a reverse arch? I've always
wondered about that: "is this by design, or are my springs dead?" So this is
called tension vs. compression? Articulation will be less important than
load-bearing in back, so I'll keep the rear orientation as-is.

Thanks for your thoughts, Tom...  If I keep hanging out with you guys, I'm
likely to learn something! (Understatement/joke - I've already learned many
things here.)

-John A.
>
> -Tom

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