Re: [ihc] Brakes, power steering

["T.R.E.Jr." <T_R_E_Jr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

---Just another thought David (everyone must be resting in preparation for
three weeks or more of turkey sandwiches. I am surprised that there isn't
more activity on this subject, must be more coming off-digest). Check the
grommet around the check valve. That grommet and check valve should be
available from Motormite (Help) if not the parts store shelf.

---How do you have the vacuum booster hooked up? I don't know if mine is
"correct", there seems to be two different ways to hook it up (just like the
vacuum advance) but the manual should show the stock routing of the vacuum
line(s).

---Thank you,
-T.R.E.Jr.
-`73 Scout II (StoneThrower)
-`51 Farmall H (Heinz)
-`49 IH fridge (presently unnamed and in need of a compressor)
-`49 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-door Sedan (Papapalooza)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Bongo" <dbongo@domain.elided>
To: "T.R.E.Jr." <T_R_E_Jr@domain.elided>
Cc: "IHC Digest" <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: [ihc] Brakes, power steering


> First, thanks for the verification that I tested the system properly.
> That was a major concern of mine.  With all my transmission problems on
> the Cherokee (4th Tranny installed at around 30K miles) I tend to get
> just a little paranoid at times.
>
> I'll have to inspect the booster as best I can tomorrow.  My normal
> mechanic is on vacation for almost a week and a half.  The other
> mechanic there actually called me at home for directions on how to open
> the hood, so I try to stick with the guy who, you know, knows how to pop
> open the hood.  Still, I'm sure he can replace the booster if
> necessary.  (There are certain things I won't do, and major brake work
> is among them.  Brakes are, like, really important for normal people.
> But for me, with about 500 stops/day, they're vital.  I can't afford to
> have a problem there.)
>
> I'll also try and find out what setup I actually do have in there.  That
> should make it a lot easier to get parts.  Hopefully I can reach the PO
> tomorrow, even with Thanksgiving right around the corner.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
> "T.R.E.Jr." wrote:
> >
> > ---Couldn't find anything through AC-Delco. I don't know if it would
work,
> > but have you asked about a master cylinder for the `74 Scout II with
front
> > drums? That would give you equal capacity reservoirs and maybe even a
> > combination valve.
> >
> > -T.R.E.Jr.
> > -`73 Scout II (StoneThrower)
> > -`51 Farmall H (Heinz)
> > -`49 IH fridge (presently unnamed and in need of a compressor)
> > -`49 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-door Sedan (Papapalooza)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "T.R.E.Jr." <T_R_E_Jr@domain.elided>
> > To: "David Bongo" <dbongo@domain.elided>; "IHC Digest"
> > <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
> > Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 7:46 PM
> > Subject: Re: [ihc] Brakes, power steering
> >
> > > ---I would say it was the booster myself. Sounds like you performed
the
> > test
> > > correctly, though it has been a while since I did it myself. The first
> > thing
> > > you do is get the air out of the system. Pump the brakes with the
motor
> > > running and release the pedal. Shut the motor down and press the brake
> > once,
> > > release, press again, release, press a third time and hold. Each time
you
> > > pressed the brake pedal, its height should have become greater. Now
start
> > > the motor with your foot still holding the pedal, it should sink 1" to
2"
> > > but no more than 2". A new brake system should sink no more than 1" to
> > > 1-1/4". My guess is that you have a collapsing line, a leak in the
> > system...
> > > maybe even in the master cylinder itself between the two pistons. I
don't
> > > see a proportioning valve being needed seeing as how you have dual
disc,
> > but
> > > you would need the emergency cut off and brake warning switch.
> > >
> > > ---Cardone brake booster is $78.79 (#5473150) and the Master Cylinder
is
> > > $24.79 (#102693) for the `94 Mustang. Don't know if that will work for
the
> > > Scout, but I can't remember what year Cadillac had the rear disc. That
> > would
> > > be the new cheap-o plastic reservoir (not including the reservoir with
the
> > > master cylinder) and the reservoir I can't find a part number for,
would
> > > have to be from a junk yard or ... I will try a cross reference on the
> > > master cylinder to other vehicles on AC-Delco's site.
> > >
> > > ---Master Cylinder for a `79 Lincoln Versailles is $16.80 (Cardone
> > #101604)
> > > and the booster is $152.70 (Cardone #527078)
> > >
> > > ---Thank you,
> > > -T.R.E.Jr.
> > > -`73 Scout II (StoneThrower)
> > > -`51 Farmall H (Heinz)
> > > -`49 IH fridge (presently unnamed and in need of a compressor)
> > > -`49 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-door Sedan (Papapalooza)
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "David Bongo" <dbongo@domain.elided>
> > > To: "IHC Digest" <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
> > > Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 6:11 PM
> > > Subject: [ihc] Brakes, power steering
> > >
> > >
> > > > I've got questions about the brakes and power steering on my Scout.
> > > > It's a '74 RHD with a 258 engine and 727 tranny.  I use (or abuse)
it
> > > > delivering mail.
> > > >
>
> [cut]
>
> > > >
> > > > Second, the brakes.  I have the TSM rear disc brake conversion (with
the
> > > > Caddie calipers) and the PO told me that he changed the master
cylinder
> > > > out for a dual-disc model, and I believe that the booster is
integral to
> > > > the unit.  Anyways, the brakes have felt a bit funny of late, so I
tried
> > > > to remember the testing procedure.  I pumped the brakes while the
truck
> > > > was off, and never really got the stiff pedal I expected - I just
kept
> > > > getting the "normal" resistance I expected.  When I turned the truck
on,
> > > > the pedal didn't really go down any.  As I recall, this is
indicitive of
> > > > a bad booster or a vaccuum leak.  The truck stops just fine, and
with
> > > > minimal effort on my part (believe me, I'd know if it required
massive
> > > > additional force to stop it).  I can't diagnose a vacuum leak (don't
> > > > know how, probably don't have the tools) but I can probably get my
> > > > mechanic to do it for free.  If that checks out OK and the booster
is
> > > > bad, where do I go?
> > > >
> > > > Would a non-power system be viable (less to go wrong, but more
effort to
> > > > stop)?  Am I running a non-power system now?
> > > >
> > > > Or should I be considering going to hydra-boost, if the cylinder is
bad?
> > > >
> > > > Or just chalk it up to bad luck and use the same basic setup again?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Dave