[ihc] Leo Jones

[J Grammer <jim@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Leo, if I have to merge 2 posts to reply again I'm gonna send you a bill! 8P

>  There is no current air cleaner.
What Bob said, this is *bad*.

> This is on a 1000 series T/A;  I have been told
> that I can get a
> new air cleaner from, say, Summit Racing, so what have those of you who have
> done this
> switch done for installing a new air cleaner?  I've been told it's a tight
> fit,
If it's a tight fit, use a recessed base unit or a stock IH 4bbl job. That 
lets you keep a TAC, which is a *good* thing where you are.


> The current owner isn't sure what size gas tank is on it.  He's put in a new
> sending unit but
> it now only reads 3/4 when it's filled up.  As it goes down, it reads
> correctly when it drops
> below 3/4 (actually, I've got the same problem on my Scout currently).  Does
> that mean there's
> a gauge problem or is it an adjustment?
Sender resistance vs. voltage supplied by the Constant Voltage Regulator 
vs. quality of the sender ground. Pretty simple to trouble shoot, just a 
pain in the patoot. If the gauge deflects at all there's likely nothing 
wrong with it.


> He seemed to think it had a small
> gas tank, probably
> 19 gallon.  I'm worried, not being able to look under the rear end, that
> there might be a problem
> installing a 33 gallon tank
No no no no no ;)  Stock tank is inside the driver's rear quarter panel 
opposite the spare tire well. 21 gallons IIRC, no options. Auxiliary tank 
is sponson mounted outside the frame rail on the passenger side, several 
options for size(14, 16, 19?). Never a center rear frame mount tank on 
T-alls, stop thinking like a Scout guy! Those in the know will call me on 
the optional '60's aux. tank that filled in the middle of the cargo floor. 
Fine, in all the time I've been doing IH's I've heard of exactly *one* of 
those appearing in the flesh. That's not to say you couldn't do it, just 
that IH didn't.


> since there's a hitch and I have no way of
> knowing if it was an original
> hitch or something someone's added on.
> Is there a way of telling that the hitch on it is original
'Stock' hitch is a long puppy mad by Reese that runs several feet forward 
and mounts to it's own dedicated crossmember. Look for a *long* receiver 
tube and it's a stocker. Brilliant design, spreads the tongue load over a 
huge area of the frame.


> What can I say, I'm a guy, so I tend to fall for a pretty face<g>
It's all in the hips and the smile, man, ferget the paint job!

> LOT of IH vehicles here in the Reno area, but few T/As  We are looking for
> something that's going to be able to pull a loaded 2 horse trailer up the
> Sierras
I'm there. 2 hay burners, 2000-2500#. Decent trailer like our Miley, 2k#. 
Figger extra junk and you're pulling 5k. I don't like 1000 drum brakes for 
this application(even considering trailer brakes). Stock 1010 disks would 
be fine.


> I'm under the impression that there
> are
> brake drums that aren't as unobtanium as others?
AFAIK all 1000 brake drums/hubs are obsolete in the aftermarket.

> His g/f who is keeping the
> vehicle in TN came back w/a 3 1/4" measurement between the studs last night.
It has a 5 on 5.5" wheel bolt circle.

>  The front
> suspension thing is a
> good point I wasn't aware of.  It's probably fine, with only 105K on it, but
> you're right, for 5 big
> ones, especially for me, it needs to be more refurbished.
Not a safe assumption. This is more like a (shudder to say) 'car' 
suspension, where things like idler arms and tie rod ends can and do wear 
out in less than 100k. The control arm bushings(lowest parts cost, highest 
labor cost) will succumb from age alone, the rubber just breaks down. When 
the control arm bushings are gone, they handle/ride like hell and can't be 
aligned properly.


> Someone else mentioned under the carpets.  The current owner says there's
> only a rust bit that's
> been siliconed above the windshield above the driver's side.
Run screaming from the building. If there is *any* evidence of bubbling 
paint above the windshield there is way more in store. The headliner needs 
to be dropped tout suite and the rust stopped from the inside.


> I've read about what others have done for refurbishing a 4x4 front end, what
> is involved in updating a 2wd
> front end on the p/u's or t/a's?
On the 1000/1010 torsion bar IFS, a complete re-do is 4 ball joints, 6 
control arm bushings, 4 strut rod bushings, 4 tie rod ends, a center link 
and an idler arm. Ask your shop what they would charge in labor to do a 
typical full size domestic car from the late '60's/early '70's.

Jim