Re: Thought on Holley 2300

["T.R.E. Jr." <T_R_E_Jr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ryan Goldade" <jettisoned@domain.elided>
To: <ihc@domain.elided>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 4:34 AM
Subject: Thought on Holley 2300


> Hello all....
> This is the first time that I've posted to the digest in about 6 years but 
> I
> still receive them all and read every single one so I'm only coming out of
> the
> lurk.

---Good to hear from you.

> The carb guy told me that IH used the 2300 for a couple years
> and that it would mount right up and was a far better carb. I posted to 
> the
> bulletin looking for info but I thought I'd try here as well. I've never 
> seen
> the 2300 outside of Ford applications and I'm wondering if it's a good 
> option
> for my specific use. Is it a true "bolt-on" option. I have a 4 speed 
> tranny
> so
> linkage isn't an issue but I'm still a little curious about the choke side
> linkage? I ordered a 2300 from the local parts shop today and it looks 
> like
> there is a manual choke?

---Manual choke is what I have on my 304 w/T-19. The list number carb I have 
is all but unattainable from anything other than a mass-produced Federal 304 
from the years 65-68. What I have on my intake manifold is a choke stove. If 
you are not familiar with it, it is a coiled spring that opens the choke as 
the engine block/intake warms up. I do not use it, I just use a manual 
choke.

---The 2300 is a basic carburetor that has so little internal parts, you 
could become a pro at rebuilds after your first time. A 5/8" & 3/8" wrench, 
standard screwdriver and a small container to catch gasoline from the bowl 
is all you need to do a roadside tune-up with the 2300. When ordering 
rebuild kits, all you have to do is get a 2300g rebuild kit, a 350cfm pump 
diaphragm and a #60677 base plate gasket to block the heat from the manifold 
and give the extra 1/8" thickness you need for smooth operation (sort of a 
spacer gasket).

---Definitely order a FelPro #60677 base plate gasket or you will have a 
harder time tuning the carb.

---FWIW, it is better on the IH SV8 to allow it time to warm up before 
operating it under load (driving) so a manual choke was ideal for me, 
wanting to take care of the motor. even in temperatures of -40 degrees (-60 
windchill) up in Michigan. In those temperatures, I would simply pull the 
choke out 1/2", pump the gas twice and turn the key (Broo-oo-oo-oo-oom!), 
she fired right up. Set the choke until the engine runs smoothly and let it 
sit for 2 minutes or until it says "sputter, thud-thud, I need less choke" 
and push the choke in 1/2 way, let it sit for another 2-3 minutes until it 
asks for more air again and then let her sit for 5 minutes to completely 
warm up.

---I have a center hung float and bowl from a 4bbl on my 2300. It allows me 
to climb steep hills and descend without stalling out or flooding. The 
side-hung worked better for traveling along grades steeper than those of a 
railroad grade ;) I have #45 jets for 450' above sea level and high humidity 
(may have to change to #48, 50, 52 or 51, FYI always test by twos and then 
drop down one when you think you have found the correct jets). While in 
Michigan at 400' ASL, I ran #44 jets and she ran like a top anywhere from 
5mph-90mph, but for the record we'll say 70 :-).

---Thank you,
-T.R.E.Jr.
-`73 Scout II (StoneThrower)
-`51 Farmall H (Heinz)
-`49 IH fridge (presently unnamed and in need of a compressor)
-`49 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-door Sedan (Papapalooza)