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Re: Rear Floor Replacement



Dennis-

Your suggestion makes a lot of sense to me, especially when old and new
metal is"Rustproofed" with POR/Herculiner, etc..

Tom's (AT Scouts) rear floor has the lip bent up which allows for plug
welding from the top (inside) rather than underneath as with some of the
2 piece floors (three piece for Travelers). He suggested cutting out the
floor and then drilling out the spot welds between the inner fenders and
the floor lip, easier to do once most of the floor is out. Removing the
old lip eliminates an area to trap moisture and dirt. The bottom inch of
the inner fenders could be cleaned up and coated with POR and/or 
Herculiner, etc. If ALL the old lip from the floor is removed, it
appeared to me that the cross members would come loose, unless the old
floor lip was left behind the crossmembers.  

Ahead of the wheelwells the floor lip appears to be inside of the
"filler" piece below that area. The floor in that area might be left to
extend out an inch or ground bank to the inner fenders. 

Anyone else done this and have suggestions?

BTW, as an alternative, the POR folks say to use their reinforced fabric
on all holes larger than a pencil point, in addition to their other
products. The holes in my floor range from pencil point and pencil
eraser size to a few whuch are about an inch in diameter. 


Charlie Bierly
1978 Traveltop and Traveler


"DENNIS L. PETTERSON II" wrote:

> > If the crossmembers are left in place, does the rear of the body need to
> > be supported when replacing one or both pieces of the rear cargo floor
> > (Traveler)? If so, place jack stands under the end cap supports only?

> > Charlie Bierly
> > 1978 Scout II Traveltop
> > 1978 Scout II Traveler
> Hi Charlie,
>  I was at East Coast Scouts about 2 weeks ago and saw a Traveler with the
> rear floor cut out.The body was still on the chassis and the top was on
> the truck.The floor of the truck had about a 1 inch lip left out from the
> side panel of the truck.I would say NO to your question.I have purchased a
> rear floor for my II and was asked if I wanted to "remove the inner rear
> quarters".I said no and was told that the lip on my floor will be "up".
> This way the floor can just drop in place and be welded in.I got my floor
> from AT Scouts,if it matters.
> BTW, did you replace your air filter yet?:)
> 
>                          E-you later,
>                          Dennis
>                          Blue 75 w/white top



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