Re: Springover Update, parts needed

[Curt Cleavinger <rcleavin@domain.elided>]

At 12:12 PM 3/4/99 -0700, Tom Mandera wrote:
>Curt Cleavinger wrote:
>> Ordered a rear driveshaft from Six States, should receive it today.
>> Jacked up one rear wheel to check clearance. It began rubbing the
>
>Did you articulate the axle w/o tires to measure for the driveshaft
>then?..
I ordered the driveshaft based on the static dimensions. According
to Six States, rear suspensions don't require all that much 
driveshaft travel. For the front, I'm going to order a driveshaft
from Gloeco that has something like 16" of travel, so it can
handle more articulation than I'm ever likely to have.

I jacked up a rear tire to check sheetmetal clearance.
I was also hoping to be able to measure where the shock mounts
need to go, but wasn't able to get the wheel high enough to 
do this.

>> front of the wheel well way before full upward travel. I did some
>
>On the front?  I thought the axle should roll rearward under compression
>and away from this lip?  Are you arching the springs negative at this
>point?
This was the rear tire hitting the front of the rear wheel well. 
Yes, the spring is in a negative arch (it's flat at rest). You're
correct - the front axle should move rearward on compression (front
shackles with flat springs). Both axles should move toward the 
middle of the vehicle as they compress (or droop), so that's 
where any trimming will be needed.

>I'm told drilling the main leaf is a PITA.  Spring steel isn't very
>happy to be drilled.
I didn't have much trouble enlarging the existing holes for a 
larger center pin (cobalt drill bit, slow drill speed in a 
drill press, lots of cutting fluid). I'll give it a shot and see 
how it goes.

>I was thinking on this subject recently.  I'm still planning to fab my
>own spring perches. (sorry, Allan.. I have a *few* to make).. and I
>think I'll just do the perch w/o a center pin for a while.. test the
>suspension out, and see where the spring should be centered, and *then*
>drill the center pin and make the U-bolt plates to match.
>
>-Tom
You might want to go with a center pin initially, so things don't
move while you're testing, and so you have a point of reference.
You can then move the pin or drill a second hole in the spring
perch.

later,    rcleavin@domain.elided  San Diego, CA
  Curt    Binder Bunch: http://www.off-road.com/~jweed/binder.htm
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