Re: tom & Towing

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

> Not only does your tow bar have a 5,000 lb tow weight max, so does your
> Scout. And, I doubt that your "towed" Scout weighed much over 5,000 lbs.
> I'm pretty sure my Terra said 4,200 lbs unladen, on the door tag, with
> 6,200 lbs max (also ties to 3100 lb rating for Dana 44 axles that Howard
> told us about).

I didn't think the towed Scout weighed in OVER 5,000lbs.. but I do
believe it wasn't all that far from it, either!  Willy said his SSII was
over 4,000lbs.. and this Scout had a hardtop (tho' no back seat).. steel
one at that. :-)

My thoughts were moving to the grey '77 I drive every day.. I haven't
taken it over the scales yet, but there's already been comments about my
over-weight rear (having something to do with my truck not sitting
level.. like my truck has a fat @$$ or something.. sheesh).. add in
those heavy 33x12.50s on steel wheels, and the bumpers I'm working on..
and a (pair of?) winch and the other things I generally carry around
with me.. and I see myself getting closer and closer to hitting and/or
surpassing that 5,000lbs.  

Like I'd mentioned - it could be that I need to flat-tow my '77 at some
point.. either with another Scout (plan is to have two similarly built
rigs.. tow one behind the other to the trail head, then drive both
(bring a friend)).. or with a more suitable tow rig (Travelette when I
find one).  A t'ette may be rated for more than 5,000lbs.. which comes
back to "Why is my tow-bar rated for 5,000lbs?" and the followup "What
can I do to safeguard that?  To raise that figure?  Where is my weak
link?"

> As to side sway, there are several devices available to help with that.
> Flat towing or dolly towing anything with the Scout's short wheelbase is
> going to result in this. And, due to the low ratio of towed Scout's wheight
> to towing Scout's wheight (1.00 for you math-impaired folks), the sway of

Actually, mine wasn't 1:1.. again, I had 3 passengers, a rear seat
(towed had no rear seat).. 33s.. 33" spare, tools, axle shafts,
driveshafts, stereo equipment, refuse.. :-)  But you're right, it wasn't
a HUGE difference.. and I know that's less than ideal.  Which is why I
was assume with the racer (should be 3500lbs give or take.. we'll see)
under normal conditions it should be better.. but that same racer, with
a hardtop on it, and camping supplies for RMIHR and maybe parts for sale
or acquisition, it may very well hit 5,000lbs.  45mph home from Bozeman
(100 miles) is OK.  45mph to Denver (800miles) is NOT. ;-)

> sway is probably due to suspension, short wheelbase, road surface/crowning,
> oversize tires (weaker sidewalls) etc.

The towed rig had P225/75R15 radials, stock height.  Of course, my truck
runs 33x12.50s on narrow 15x8 rims.  I also have a lift, and shackles
which Howard already said were "no-nos" for a tow rig.  For that matter,
isn't the factory step bumper only rated to 2500lbs or something?

Road surface made a big difference.. there was a stretch of pavement
that I was able to do 60mph OK.  Most of it had me bucking and swaying
more than I liked, and thus I was at 45mph..

> One of the best options for you to look into for the racer would be an
> "anti-sway bar". Nothing but a specialized shock abosorber that goes
> between towing and towed vehicle to dampen the "resonance" and "rebound"
> when the towed vehicle sways.

Ah-hah.  And this would work with my tow-bar?  I'll have to go look into
these.. 

> I would recommend you look into a "toad" vehicle braking system if you're
> really going to tow the racer with the Scout. That will not only help with
> sway, it will keep the racer from running your ass off the road on the long
> downhills. BTDT.

The racer I just dismantled was named, "Ditch Runner".. my friend was
flat-towing the racer behind his other (350powered) Scout II on the
*same* road from Bozeman to Helena.. he was coming to Helena to race..
for some reason, the racer (toad) ended up in the ditch, getting drug
nearly sideways.. Blair gave it more throttle and pulled the Scout back
onto the asphalt.. but I guess it wasn't a fun time for him. :)

The Toad systems you've spoken of before are in the $400 range, right,
Tom?

@ $400.. wouldn't I be better off going the $800 to $1000 for a flatbed
with trailer brakes?  The only drawback then becomes weight.. I'm adding
more.  Of course, I'd also want a drop-deck trailer to keep that weight
low n' all that fun stuff...  Hmmm.. my step dad's and I were talking
last night.. he was thinking of taking the rusty bed off his '69 GMC and
putting a 5-th wheel on it.. and then he could tow his 30' (or so)
refrigeration trailer that he owns... I think I'd want something a
little beefier for towing that trailer much.. but there's a BIG enclosed
racing trailer I could use.. ;-)

Here's another interesting thought...

I plan on wiring up lights in the racer and licensing it.  One of the
side benefits?  I plan on a permanent pigtail on the front of the racer
and appropriate adapters (I plan on re-wiring the Scout's trailer plug
to a 6-plug setup when I build a new bumper) to attach to the '77's
trailer light plug.  This pigtail would then run RELAYS that would
switch the appropriate lights on and off.. using the racer's battery. 
Maybe I'd have a secondary setting to use the tow-vehicle's battery if
need be (low batt).. but the idea being to limit the current draw on the
(inadequate) stock Scout II harness on the tow vehicle.. and instead
just switch on the lights using the racer's own battery and light
circuits.

It *should* result in bright lights all around.

Thanks, Tom.

-Tom Mandera, Helena MT
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout