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Xfer Case Jumping Out of 4L



Reapers,

Like me, I know many of you have had a problem with your Dana-20 transfer
case jumping out of 4L under load.  In past discussions on this topic,
several Digesters suggested it had to do with the shift lever contacting
the front of the floorboard cutout.  This prevents the shift lever from
going all the way completely forward into 4L.  This seems to be an inherent
fitting problem from the factory,  and a body lift compounds the situation.

Originally, in my 76 Traveler with an automatic transmission, the transfer
case would jump out of  4L only under heavy load.  Manually holding the
shift lever forward with moderate force kept the transfer case in gear.
This summer I rebuilt and swapped in a transfer case I received in trade
from Tony Sobrito and noticed the situation was even worse.  That transfer
case came from some friends of Tony's in BC I think and originally was in a
Scout II with manual transmission.  After the swap, the shift knob contacts
the hood release knob on the dash before the transfer case is fully engaged
in 4L.  It took me awhile to address this annoying little problem, but this
past weekend I finally got time to do some investigating.

I should also mention that I now have a third spare Dana-20 transfer case
from my 77 (built in December of 76) parts Traveler I bought from Owen
Minor.  So this gives me three shift levers to examine.  I pulled my
current transfer case and removed the shift lever and aligned all three
together, and guess what... all three have a different bend to them.  The
two shift levers I've used so far (my original and the one from the rebuilt
case) are very close to the same profile.  The third however from my parts
Traveler is a whole 'nother story!  It is bent so far *back* that it easily
engages 4L, but contacts the floorboard cutout before the transfer case can
be placed in 4H range (in my Traveler).  This is strange.

I looked at the part manual and it shows the same shift lever is used for
all Scout II's, with the exception of ones equipped with the 6-33 Diesel
engine.  Obviously, the location of the transfer case and the vehicle body
is going to dictate the shape of a properly working shift lever.

So I spent all Sunday fitting the shift levers I had one by one and
comparing interference with the floorboard cutout.  Man am I sore after
wrestling with that heavy transfer case all day.  But I finally think I've
determined the optimum placement for the shift lever, which will require
heating and bending one that I have.  None of the three shift levers I have
fit well enough to properly engage both 4L and 4H on the other extreme.  I
tried heating one particular shift lever at home with a small Bernzomatic
MAPP torch, but couldn't generate sufficient heat to allow me to bend the
lever.  These levers are stiff!  I brought it into work and will use a
large heavy duty acetylene torch to do the deed.

The trick will be to use some sort of reference point while bending the
shift lever so that I can get it right the first time.  I have measurements
and references marked on the lever.  I don't want to have to continue with
the basic trial and error fitting method because that darn transfer case is
so heavy and bulky to fit.

So I'm passing this experience along to the rest of you in case you have
this problem also.  I'm going to need my 4L range more now that I'm pulling
my 18 foot travel trailer up steep mountain logging roads for hunting and
camping.  There's nothing more fun than trying to steer the truck while at
the same time hold the transfer case shift lever in 4L with all your might.

I'll keep you posted as to whether or not this solves the problem.

Regards,

John
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