RE: Pressure bleeding

["Eppinger.Michael" <Eppinger.Michael@domain.elided>]

Hey Joel,
I would remove all of the gasket except for the outer ring that seals
the cap onto the master cylinder.  The air pressure itself will force
the fluid through the lines when you open the bleed screw.  When you
install the schrader valve, make sure you can still install the locking
clip over the top of the cap.  If the cap is vented just drill the mount
hole where the vent hole is, if not, just seal the vent hole and drill
elsewhere.  You should not need more than about 30 # of pressure.

Hope this helps

Epp

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	jmbrodsky@domain.elided [SMTP:jmbrodsky@domain.elided]
> Sent:	Thursday, February 19, 1998 10:43 AM
> To:	ihc-digest@domain.elided; Eppinger.Michael
> Subject:	Pressure bleeding
> 
> I'm not understanding this then.  I thought this is what you 
> meant:
>                Schrader
>                      |
>                      V
>              -      __        -
>            /   \    ||      /   \
>          /      |   ||     |     |
>  --------        ----------      |
> |_________________________________|
>  __________________________________
> |__________________________________| gasket
> 
>  |__________________|_____________|
>  | master cylinder  |             |
>  |                  |             |
>  ----------------------------------
> 
> If this is the case, the schrader places air over the rubber 
> diaphragm, and doesn't actually put air to brake fluid, just the 
> diaphragm pressure.  I think the cap actually may have holes in 
> some models, so it'd have to be a sealed cap.
> 
> Am I confused or what?
> 
> -Joel
> '76 Scout II 345/727
> '75 T'all 150 4wd 392/727
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >