Dashpots, and fender rust...

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

John,

     I *think* you mean the the transducer (should not) leak vacuum, cut wires 
or not.  The dash pot is made to open at 1800 rpm, and be closed at anything 
lower.  The signal comes from the gold box, and only has relay/valve control 
with a signal, ie. normally closed.
    
 -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.


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Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 20:14:18 GMT
From: jlandry@domain.elided (John A. Landry)
Subject: Re: carb tuning 
<snip>

>On a related question...My dashpot has the vacuum hoses connected, but the
>wires are cut.  Is it worth replacing them, and could there be a vacuum
>leak if the hoses are connected but not the wires?

The "throttle position transducer" should leak vacuum cut wires or not.
You can attach a piece of vacuum hose to the transducer and suck on it to
see if the transducer is vacuum tight.  The transducer is supposed to hold
the throttle slightly open above a certain engine rpm to reduce exhaust
emissions.  You may with to reconnect it and verify it's working... it's up
to you.
<snip>
Good luck,

John

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
jlandry@domain.elided             |
Conservative Libertarian        |  Scout(R) the America others pass by
Life Member of the NRA          | in the Scout Traveler escape-machine.
WA Arms Collectors              |
Commercial Helicopter - Inst.   | 1976 Scout II Traveler "Patriot" model
http://www.halcyon.com/jlandry/ |     1977 Scout II Traveler (Parts)

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Ken,

     Glad to hear you got that mud out of there.  Mud just waits to make rust.  
Anyway, about the mounts, they were a slight less that 1/8" (.125).  I made the 
error that the steel I used was .010.  It should have read .100, or a tenth of 
an inch.  Sorry for the confusion.  Looking at that now, 1/100" steel is like 3 
sheets of paper in thickness.  Katana what is that?  Anyway, if it were 10GA.  I
hope I would have written 10GA.  Except that on my track record in this post, 
I'd prolly type 1GA, which would be incorrect.

     My T'all's driver side air duct through the fender to the kick panel had 
about a 5-gal bucket's worth of olive leaves in it, and it had rusted the duct 
clear through to the wheel well.  If I hit a really good puddle, water comes in 
the kick panel vent and I get my feet wet.  Need to rivet some plate in there.

Glad it helped,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.
     
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Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 13:18 -0700 (MST)
From: Ken Farmer <Ken.Farmer@domain.elided>
Subject: Misc Body Questions
<snip>
>     I made my mounts with some sheet steel I had lying around.  It was like 
>.010 and it was about the limit of the brake (box and pan with movable fingers)
>that I bent it with.  

Do you mean .010 inches - or is this a convention to mean 10 gauge?
In the former case it sounds like you must be employing an ancient
katana-smithing technique!
<snip>
Sorry about the ramble,

Ken Farmer
1980 Scout II   167k miles (my daily commuter)
1974 Travelall  169k miles (my wife's daily commuter - she's so cool
                            that she now thinks travelalls are sexy!)

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